1.9. Of such Ilands as are to be seene vpon the coasts of Britaine. Cap. 10.
Of such Ilands as are to be seene vpon the coasts of Britaine. Cap. 10.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 _THere are néere vnto, or not ve|rie farre from the coasts of Bri|taine many faire Ilands, wher|of Ireland with hir neighbors (not here handled) séeme to be the cheefe. But of the rest, some are much larger or lesse than o|ther, diuers in like sort enuiro|ned continuallie with the salt sea (whereof I purpose onelie to intreat, although not a few of them be I|lands but at the floud) and other finallie be clipped part|lie by the fresh and partlie by the salt water, or by the fresh alone, whereof I may speake afterward.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Of these salt Ilands (for so I call them that are en|uironed with the Ocean waues) some are fruitfull in wood, corne, wild foule, and pasture ground for cattell, albeit that manie of them be accounted barren, bi|cause they are onelie replenished with conies, and those of sundrie colours (cherished of purpose by the owners, for their skins or carcases in their prouision of house|hold) without either man or woman otherwise inha|biting in them. Furthermore, the greatest number of these Ilands haue townes and parish-churches, with|in their seuerall precincts, some mo, some lesse: and be|side all this, are so inriched with commodities, that they haue pleasant hauens, fresh springs, great store of fish, and plentie of cattell, wherby the inhabitants doo reape no small aduantage. How manie they are in number I cannot as yet determine, bicause mine informati|ons are not so fullie set downe, as the promises of some on the one side, & mine expectation on the other did ex|tend vnto. Howbeit, first of all that there are certeine which lie neere togither, as it were by heapes and clu|sters, I hope none will readilie denie. Of these also those called the Nesiadae,Nesiadae, InsulaeInsulae Scylurum,Scylurum, Silcustrae,Silcustrae. Syllanae, Syllanae. now the Sorlings, Sorlingae. and Iles of Silley, Sylley. lieng be|yond Cornwall are one, and confe [...]eth in number one hundreth fourtie and seauen (each of them bearing grasse) besides shelfes and shallowes . In like sort the companie of the Hebr [...]des Hebrides. in old time subiect vnto Ire|land are another,Hebudes. which are said to be 43. situat vpon the west side of this Iand,Meuaniae. betweene Ireland & Scot|land, and of which there are some that repute Anglesei,Orchades. EEBO page image 30 Mona Caesaris, and other lieng betweene them to be parcell, in their corrupted iudgement. The third cluster or bunch consisteth of those that are called the Or|chades, and these lie vpon the northwest point of Scot|land, being 31. aliàs 28. in number, as for the rest they lie scattered here and there, and yet not to be vntouched as their courses shall come about. There are also the 18. Shetland Iles, and other yet farther distant from them, of which Iohn Frobuser I doubt not touched vpon some in his voiage to Meta Incognita: but for somuch as I must speake of the Shetlands hereafter, I doo not meane to spend anie time about them as yet.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 There haue beene diuers that haue written of pur|pose, De insulis Britanniae, as Caesar doth confesse. The like also may be seene by Plutarch, who nameth one Deme|trius a Britaine, that should set foorth an exact treatise of each of them in order, and among other tell of cer|teine desert Iles beyond Scotland dedicated to sun|drie gods and goddesses, but of one especiallie, where Briareus should hold Saturne and manie other spirits fast bound with the chaines of an heauie sléepe, as he heard, of which some die now and then, by meane wher|of the aire becommeth maruellouslie troubled, &c: as you may sée in Plutarch De cessatione oraculorum, &c. But sith those bookes are now perished, and the most of the said Ilands remaine vtterlie vnknowen, euen to our owne selues (for who is able in our time to say where is Glota, Hiuerion, Etta, Iduna, Armia, Aesarea, Barsa, Isiandium, Icdelis, Xantisma, Indelis, Siata, Ga. Andros or Edros, Siambis, Xanthos, Ricnea, Menapia, &c? whose names onelie are lest in memorie by ancient writers, but I saie their places not so much as heard of in our daies) I meane (God willing) to set downe so manie of them with their commodities, as I doo either know by Leland, or am otherwise instructed of by such as are of credit. Herein also I will touch at large those that are most famous, and breeflie passe ouer such as are obscure and vnknowen, making mine entrance at the Thames mouth, and directing this imagined course (for I neuer sailed it) by the south part of the Iland into the west. From thence in like sort I will proceed into the north, & come about againe by the east side into the fall of the aforesaid streame, where I will strike saile, and safelie be set a shore, that haue often in this voiage wanted water, but oftener béene set a ground, especiallie on the Scotish side.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 In beginning therefore, with such as lie in the mouth of the aforesaid riuer, I must néeds passe by the How ,Hoo. which is not an Iland, and therefore not within the compasse of my description at this time, but almost an Iland, which parcels the Latins call Peninsulas, and I doo english a Byland, vsing the word for such as a man may go into drie-footed at the full sea, or on horsse|backe at the low water without anie boat or vessell: and such a one almost is Rochford hundred in Essex al|so, yet not at this time to be spoken of, bicause not the sea onelie but the fresh water also doth in maner enui|ron it, and is the cheefe occasion wherfore it is called an Iland. This How lieth between Cliffe (in old time cal|led Clouesho , to wit, Cliffe in How or in the hundred of How) & the midwaie that goeth along by Rochester, of which hundred there goeth an old prouerbe in rime after this maner:
He that rideth into the hundred of How,Beside pilfering sea-men shall find durt ynow.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Next vnto this we haue the Greane , Greane. wherein is a towne of the same denomination, an Ile supposed to be foure miles in length, and two in bredth. Then come we to Shepey, Shepey. which Ptolomie calleth Counos , conteining seauen miles in length, and three in bredth, wherein is a castell called Quinborow, and a parke, beside foure townes, of which one is named Minster, another East|church, the third Warden, and the fourth Leyden: the whole soile being throughlie fed with shéepe, verie well woodded, and (as I heare) belongeth to the Lord Chey|ney , as parcell of his inheritance. It lieth thirtéene miles by water from Rochester, but the castell is fif|téene, and by south thereof are two small Ilands,Elmesie. Herresie. wher|of the one is called Elmesie, and the more easterlie Her|tesie. In this also is a towne called Hertie, or Hartie, and all in the Lath of Scraie, notwithstanding that Hartie lieth in the hundred of Feuersham, and Shepey reteineth one especiall Bailie of hir owne.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 2 From hence we passe by the Reculuers (or territo|rie belonging in time past to one Raculphus , who ere|cted an house of religion, or some such thing there) vnto a little Iland in the Stoure mouth. Herevpon also the Thanet abutteth,Srureey. Thanet. which Ptolomie calleth Toliapis, other Athanatos, bicause serpents are supposed not to liue in the same, howbeit sith it is not enuironed with the sea, it is not to be dealt withall as an Iland in this place, albeit I will not let to borow of my determination, and describe it as I go, bicause it is so fruitfull. Beda noteth it in times past to haue conteined 600. families, which are all one with Hidelands,In Lin|colneshire the word Hide or hideland, was neuer in vse in old time as in o|ther places, but for Hide they vsed the word Caru|cate or [...]art|ware, or Teme, and these were of no lesse com|passe than an Hideland. Ploughlands, Car|rucates, or Temewares. He addeth also that it is di|uided from our continent, by the riuer called Want|sume , which is about thrée furlongs broad, and to be pas|sed ouer in two places onelie. But whereas Polydore saieth, the Thanet is nine miles in length & not much lesse in bredth, it is now reckoned that it hath not much aboue seauen miles from Nordtmuth to Sandwich, and foure in bredth, from the Stoure to Margate, or from the south to the north, the circuit of the whole being 17. or 18. as Leland also noteth. This Iland hath no wood growing in it except it be forced, and yet other|wise it is verie fruitfull, and beside that it wanteth few other commodities, Ex Hugone le blanc Mo|nacho Petro|b [...]gensi . the finest chalke is said to be found there. Herein also did Augustine the moonke first ar|riue, when he came to conuert the Saxons, and after|ward in processe of time, sundry religious houses were erected there, as in a soile much bettered (as the super|sticious supposed) by the steps of that holy man, & such as came ouer with him. There are at this time 10. parish churches at the least in the Ile of Thanet, as S. Nicho|las, Birchington, S. Iohns, Wood or Woodchurch, S. Pe|ters, S. Laurence, Mownton or Monkeron, Minster, S. Gyles, and all Saincts, whereof M. Lambert hath writ|ten at large in his description of Kent, and placed the same in the Lath of sainct Augustine and hundred of Kingslow, as may easilie be séene to him that will per|use it.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Sometime Rutupium or (as Beda calleth it) Repta|cester, Rutupium. stood also in this Iland, but now thorough alte|ration of the chanell of the Dour, it is shut quite out, and annexed to the maine. It is called in these daies Richborow, and as it should seeme builded vpon an in|different soile or high ground. The large brickes also yet to be seene there, in the ruinous walles, declare ei|ther the Romane or the old British workemanship. But as time decaieth all things, so Rutupium named Ruptimuth is now become desolate, and out of the dust thereof Sandwich producted, which standeth a full mile from the place where Reptacester stood. The old wri|ters affirme, how Arthur & Mordred fought one notable battell here, wherin Gwallon or Gawan was slaine; at which time the said rebell came against his souereigne with 70000. Picts, Scots, Irish, Norwegiens, &c: and with Ethelbert the first christian king of Kent did hold his palace in this towne, and yet none of his coine hath hitherto beene found there, as is dailie that of the Romanes, whereof manie péeces of siluer and gold, so well as of brasse, copper, and other mettall haue often beene shewed vnto me. It should appéere in like sort, that of this place, all the whole coast of Kent therabout was called Littus Rutupinum, which some doo not a lit|tle confirme by these words of Lucane , to be read in his sixt booke soone after the beginning
EEBO page image 31Aut vaga cum Tethis, Rutupinà littora feruent,Vnda Calidonios fallit turbata Britannos.Or when the wandering seasand Kentish coasts doo worke,And Calidons of British bloud,The last verse of one couple and first of an other.the troubled waues beguile.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Meaning in like sort by the latter, the coast néere Andredeswald , which in time past was called Littus Calidonium of that wood or forrest, as Leland also confirmeth. But as it is not my mind to deale anie thing curiouslie in these by-matters, so in returning a|gaine to my purpose, and taking my iourney toward the Wight, I must needs passe by Selesey , which some|time (as it should séeme) hath béene a noble Iland,Seolesey of Seles there taken. but now in maner a Byland or Peninsula, wherin the chéefe sée of the bishop of Chichester was holden by the space of thrée hundred twentie nine yeares, and vnder twentie bishops.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Next vnto this, we come vnto those that lie betweene the Wight and the maine land, of which the most easter|lie is called Thorne, Thorne. and to saie truth, the verie least of all that are to be found in that knot. Being past the Thorne, we touched vpon the Haling , which is bigger than the Thorne, and wherein one towne is situat of the same denomination beside another, whose name I remember not.Haling. By west also of the Haling lieth the Port (the greatest of the three alreadie mentioned) and in this standeth Portsmouth and Ringstéed, whereof al|so our Leland, saieth thus: Port Ile is cut from the shore by an arme of the maine hauen, which breaketh out about thrée miles aboue Portsmouth, and goeth vp two miles or more by morish ground to a place called Portbridge,Port. which is two miles from Portsmouth. Then breaketh there out another créeke from the maine sea, about Auant hauen, which gulleth vp almost to Portbridge, and thence is the ground disseuered, so that Portsmouth standeth in a corner of this Ile, which Iland is in length six miles, and three miles in bredth, verie good for grasse and corne, not without some wood, and here and there inclosure. Beside this, there is also another Iland north northwest of Port Ile, which is now so worne and washed awaie with the working of the sea, that at the spring tides it is wholie couered with water, and thereby made vnprofitable. Finallie being past all these, and in compassing this gulfe, we come by an other, which lieth north of Hirst castell, & south|east of Kaie hauen, whereof I find nothing worthie to be noted, sauing that it wanteth wood, as Ptolomie af|firmeth in his Geographicall tables of all those Ilands which enuiron our Albion.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 The Wight is called in Latine Vectis, Wight. Guidh. but in the British speach Guidh, that is to saie, Eefe or easie to be séene, or (as D. Caius saith) separate, bicause that by a breach of the sea, it was once diuided from the maine, as Sicilia was also from Italie, Anglesei from Wales, Foulenesse from Essex, & Quinborow from Kent. It lieth distant from the south shore of Britaine (where it is fardest off) by fiue miles & a halfe, but where it com|meth neerest, not passing a thousand paces, and this at the cut ouer betwéene Hirst castell and a place called Whetwell chine , as the inhabitants doo report. It con|teineth in length twentie miles, and in bredth ten, it hath also the north pole eleuated by 50. degrées and 27. minutes, and is onelie 18. degrees in distance, and 50. od minuts from the west point, as experience hath confirmed, contrarie to the description of Ptolomie, and such as folow his assertions in the same. In forme, it representeth almost an eg, and so well is it inhabited with meere English at this present, that there are thir|tie six townes, villages and castels to be found therein, be side 27. parish-churches, of which 15. or 16. haue their Parsons, the rest either such poore Uicars or Curats, as the liuings left are able to sustaine. The names of the parishes in the Wight are these.
- Compare 1577 edition:
1
- 1 Newport , a chap.
- 2 Cairsbrosie. v.
- 3 Northwood.
- 4 Arriun . v.
- 5 Goddeshill . v.
- 6 Whitwell .
- 7 S. Laurence. p.
- 8 Nighton. p.
- 9 Brading. v.
- 10 Newchurch . v.
- 11 S. Helene . v.
- 12 Yauerland . p.
- 13 Calborne . p.
- 14 Bonechurch. p.
- 15 Mottesson . p.P. signifi|eth parso|nages, U. vi|carages.
- 16 Yarmouth. p.
- 17 Thorley . v.
- 18 Shalflete. v.
- 19 Whippingham. p.
- 20 Wootton . p.
- 21 Chale . p.
- 22 Kingston . p.
- 23 Shorwell . p.
- 24 Gatrombe . p.
- 25 Brosie.
- 26 Brixston . p.
- 27 Bensted . p.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 It belongeth for temporall iurisdiction to the countie of Hamshire, but in spirituall cases it yéeldeth obe|dience to the sée of Winchester, wherof it is a Deane|rie. As for the soile of the whole Iland, it is verie fruit|full, for notwithstanding the shore of it selfe be verie full of rocks and craggie cliffes, yet there wanteth no plentie of cattell, corne, pasture, medow ground, wild foule, fish, fresh riuers, and pleasant woods, whereby the inhabitants may liue in ease and welfare. It was first ruled by a seuerall king, and afterwards wonne from the Britons by Vespasian the legat, at such time as he made a voiage into the west countrie. In pro|cesse of time also it was gotten from the Romans by the kings of Sussex, who held the souereignti [...] of the same, and kept the king thereof vnder tribute, till it was wonne also from them, in the time of Athelwold, the eight king of the said south region, by Ceadwalla, who killed Aruald that reigned there, and reserued the souereigntie of that Ile to himselfe and his successors for euermore. At this time also there were 1200. fa|milies in that Iland, whereof the said Ceadwalla gaue 300 to Wilfride sometime bishop of Yorke, exhorting him to erect a church there, and preach the gospell also to the inhabitants thereof, which he in like maner perfor|med, but according to the precriptions of the church of Rome, wherevnto he yéelded himselfe vassall and feu|darie: so that this Ile by Wilfride was first conuerted to the faith, though the last of all other that hearke|ned vnto the word. After Ceadwalla, Woolfride the parricide was the first Saxon prince that aduentu|red to flie into the Wight for his safegard, whither he was driuen by Kenwalch of the Westsaxons, who made great warres vpon him, and in the end compelled him to go into this place for succour, as did also king Iohn , in the rebellious stir of his Barons, practised by the clergie: the said Iland being as then in possession of the Forts, as some doo write that haue handled it of purpose. The first Earle of this Iland that I doo read of, was one Baldwijne de Betoun, who married for his second wife, the daughter of William le Grosse Earle of Awmarle; but he dieng without issue by this ladie, she was maried the second time to Earle Maundeuile, and thirdlie to William de Fortes, who finished Skip|ton castell, which his wiues father had begun about the time of king Richard the first. Hereby it came to passe also, that the Forts were Earls of Awmarle, Wight, and Deuonshire a long time, till the ladie Elizabeth Fortes, sole heire to all those possessions came to age, with whom king Edward the third so preuailed through monie & faire words, that he gat the possession of the Wight wholie into his hands, & held it to himselfe & his successors, vntill Henrie the sixt, about the twentieth of his reigne, crowned Henrie Beauchamp sonne to the lord Richard Earle of Warwike king thereof and of Iardesey and Gardesey with his owne hands, and thervnto gaue him a commendation of the Dutchie of Warwike with the titles of Comes comitum Angliae, lord Spenser of Aburgauenie, and of the castell of Bristow (which castell was sometime taken from his ancestors by king Iohn) albeit he did not long enioy EEBO page image 32 these great honors, sith he died 1446. without issue, and seuen yéeres after his father.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 After we be past the Wight, we go forward and come vnto Poole hauen, wherein is an Ile, called Brunt Keysy , Brunt Keysy. in which was sometime a parish church, and but a chapell at this present, as I heare. There are also two other Iles, but as yet I know not their names.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 We haue (after we are passed by these) another Ile, or rather Byland also vpon the coast named Portland not far from Waymouth or the Gowy,Portland. a prettie fertile peece though without wood, of ten miles in circuit, now well inhabited, but much better heretofore, and yet are there about foure score housholds in it. There is but one street of houses therein, the rest are dis|persed, howbeit they belong all to one parish-church, whereas in time past there were two within the com|passe of the same. There is also a castell of the kings, who is lord of the Ile, although the bishop of Winche|ster be patrone of the church, the parsonage whereof is the fairest house in all the péece. The people there are no lesse excellent stingers of stones than were the Ba|leares, who would neuer giue their children their din|ners till they had gotten the same with their stings, and therefore their parents vsed to hang their meate verie high vpon some bough, to the end that he which strake it downe might onlie haue it, whereas such as missed were sure to go without it, Florus lib. 3. cap. 8. Which feat the Portlands vse for the defense of their Iland, and yet otherwise are verie couetous. And wheras in time past they liued onlie by fishing, now they fall to tillage. Their fire bote is brought out of the Wight, and other places, yet doo they burne much cow doong dri|ed in the sunne, for there is I saie no wood in the Ile, ex|cept a few elmes that be about the church. There would some grow there, no doubt, if they were willing to plant it, although the soile lie verie bleake and open. It is not long since this was vnited to the maine, and likelie yer long to be cut off againe.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Being past this we raise another, also in the mouth of the Gowy, betweene Colsford and Lime, of which for the smalnesse thereof I make no great account. Wherefore giuing ouer to intreat any farther of it,Iardsey. I cast about to Iardsey, and Gardesey, Gardesey. which Iles with their appurtenances apperteined in times past to the Dukes of Normandie, but now they remaine to our Quéene, as parcell of Hamshire and iurisdiction of Winchester, & belonging to hir crowne, by meanes of a composition made betwéene K. Iohn of England and the K. of France, when the dominions of the said prince began so fast to decrease, as Thomas Sulmo saith.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Of these two,Iardsey. Iardsey is the greatest, an Iland hauing thirtie miles in compasse, as most men doo con|iecture. There are likewise in the same twelue parish-churches, with a colledge, which hath a Deane and Prebends. It is distant from Gardsey full 21. miles, or therabouts, and made notable, by meanes of a blou|die fact doone there in Queene Maries daies, whereby a woman called Perotine Massie wife vnto an honest minister or préest, being great with childe by hir hus|band, was burned to ashes: through the excéeding crueltie of the Deane and Chapiter, then contending manifestlie against God for the mainteinance of their popish and antichristian kingdome. In this hir execu|tion, and at such time as the fire caught holde of hir wombe, hir bellie brake, and there issued a goodly man|childe from hir, with such force that it fell vpon the cold ground quite beyond the heate and furie of the flame, which quicklie was taken vp and giuen from one tor|mentor and aduersarie to an other to looke vpon, whose eies being after a while satisfied with the beholding thereof,Horrible murther. they threw it vnto the carcase of the mother which burned in the fire, whereby the poore innocent was consumed to ashes, whom that furious element would gladlie haue left vntouched,Gardsey. & wherevnto it mi|nistred (as you heare) an hurtlesse passage. In this lat|ter also, there haue béene in times past, fiue religious houses, and nine castels, howbeit in these daies there is but one parish-church lest standing in the same. There are also certeine other small Ilands, which Henrie the second in his donation calleth Insulettas, beside verie manie rocks whereof one called S. Hilaries S. Hilaries. (wherein sometime was a monasterie) is fast vpon Iardsey, ano|ther is named the Cornet, Cornet. which hath a castel not passing an arrow shot from Gardsey.Serke. The Serke also is be|twéene both, which is six miles about, and hath another annexed to it by an Isthmus or Strictland, wherein was a religious house, & therwithall great store of conies.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 There is also the Brehoc ,Brehoc. the Gytho ,Gytho. and the Herme, Herme. which latter is foure miles in compasse, and therein was sometime a Canonrie, that afterward was con|uerted into an house of Franciscanes. There are two other likewise neere vnto that of S. Hilarie, of whose names I haue no notice. There is also the rockie Ile of Burhoo , Burhoo, ali|às the Ile of rats. but now the Ile of rats, so called of the huge plentie of rats that are found there, though otherwise it be replenished with infinit store of conies, betwéene whome and the rats, as I coniecture, the same which we call Turkie conies,Turkie co|nies. are oftentimes produced among those few houses that are to be seene in this Iland. Some are of the opinion that there hath béene more store of building in this Ile than is at this present to be seene, & that it became abandoned through multitudes of rats, but hereof I find no perfect warrantise that I may safelie trust vnto, yet in other places I read of the like thing to haue happened, as in Gyara of the Cycla|des, where the rats increased so fast that they drauc a|way the people. Varro speaketh of a towne in Spaine that was ouerthrowne by conies. The Abderits were driuen out of Thracia by the increase of mice & frogs; and so manie conies were there on a time in the Iles Maiorca and Minorca (now perteining to Spaine) that the people began to starue for want of bread, and their cattell for lacke of grasse. And bicause the Iland|ers were not able to ouercome them, Augustus was constreined to send an armie of men to destroie that needlesse brood. Plin. lib. 8. cap. 55. A towne also in France sometime became desolate onelie by frogs and todes. Another in Africa by locustes and also by grashoppers, as Amicla was by snakes and adders.Causes of the desolati|on of sundrie cities and townes. Theophrast telleth of an whole countrie consumed by the palmer-worme, which is like vnto an huge cater|piller. Plinie writeth of a prouince vpon the borders of Aethiopia made void of people by ants and scorpions, and how the citizens of Megara in Grecia were faine to leaue that citie through multitudes of bées, as waspes had almost driuen the Ephensians out of Ephe|sus. But this of all other (whereof Aelianus intreateth ) is most woonderfull, that when the Cretenses were cha|sed out of a famous citie of their Iland by infinit num|bers of bees, the said bees conuerted their houses into hiues, and made large combes in them which reached from wall to wall, wherein they reserued their honie. Which things being dulie considered, I doo not denie the possibilitie of the expulsion of the inhabitants out of the Ile of Burho by rats, although I say that I doo not warrant the effect, bicause I find it not set downe directlie in plaine words.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 2 Beside this there is moreouer the Ile of Alderney a verie pretie plot,Alderney. about seuen miles in compasse, wher|in in a préest not long since did find a coffin of stone, in which lay the bodie of an huge giant, whose fore téeth were so big as a mans fist, as Leland dooth report.Comment. Cer|tes this to me is no maruell at all,Brit. sith I haue read of greater, and mentioned them alreadie in the begin|ning of this booke. Such a tooth also haue they in Spaine wherevnto they go in pilgrimage as vnto S. Christo|phers tooth, but it was one of his eie teeth, if Ludouicus Viues say true, who went thither to offer vnto the EEBO page image 33 same. S. August. de ciuit. lib. 15. cap. 9 . writeth in like sort, of such another found vpon the coast of Vtica, and thereby gathereth that all men in time past were not onlie far greater than they be now, but also the giants farre exceeding the huge stature and height of the high|est of them all.Iliad. 6. Homer complaineth that men in his time were but dwarfes in comparison of such as liued in the wars of Troy. See his fift Iliad, where he spea|keth of Diomedes, Iliad 5. & 7. and how he threw a stone at Aeneas, (which 14. men of his time were not able to stirre) and therewith did hit him on the thigh and ouerthrew him. Virgil also noteth no lesse, in his owne deuise,Virgilius Aen. 12. but Iu|uenall bréefelie comprehendeth all this in his 15. Satya, where he saith:
Saxa inclinatis per humum quaesita lacertisIncipiunt torquere, domestica seditioneTela, nec hunc lapidem, quali se Turnus, & Aiax,Et quo Tytides percussit pondere coxamAeneae: sed quem valeant emittere dextraeIllis dissimiles, & nostro tempore nata.Nam genus hoc viuo iam decrescebat Homero,Terra malos homines nunc educat, atque pusillos,Ergo Deus quicunque aspexit, ridet, & odit.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 But to returne againe vnto the Ile of Alderney, from whence I haue digressed. Herein also is a prettie towne with a parish-church, great plentie of corne, cattell, conies, and wilde foule, whereby the inhabi|tants doo reape much gaine and commoditie: onelie wood is their want, which they otherwise supplie. The language also of such as dwell in these Iles, is French; but the wearing of their haire long, & the attire of those that liued in Gardsey and Iardsey, vntill the time of king Henrie the eight, was all after the Irish guise. The Ile of Gardsey also was sore spoiled by the French 1371 . and left so desolate, that onlie one castell remai|ned therein vntouched.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Beyond this, and neere vnto the coast of England (for these doo lie about the verie middest of the British sea) we haue one Iland called the Bruch or the Bruch|sey ,Bruchsey. lieng about two miles from Poole, whither men saile from the Fromouth, and wherein is nought else, but an old chapell, without any other housing.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Next to this also are certeine rocks, which some take for Iles, as Illeston rocke néere vnto Peritorie , Horestan Ile a mile from Peritorie by south, Blacke rocke Ile southeast from Peritorie toward Teygne|mouth, and also Chester, otherwise called Plegimund|ham: but how (to saie truth) or where this latter lieth, I cannot make report as yet, neuerthelesse sith Le|land noteth them togither, I thinke it not my part to make separation of them.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 From hence the next Ile is called Mount. Iland,Mount Iland. o|therwise Mowtland, situate ouer against Lough, a|bout two miles from the shore, and well néere thrée miles in compasse. This Iland hath no inhabitants, but onelie the warrenner and his dog, who looketh vn|to the conies there: notwithstanding that vpon the coast thereof in time of the yeere, great store of pil|chards is taken, and carried from thence into manie places of our countrie. It hath also a fresh well com|ming out of the rocks, which is worthie to be noted in so small a compasse of ground. Moreouer in the mouth of the créeke that leadeth vnto Lough, or Loow, as some call it, there is another little Iland of about eight acres of ground called S. Nicholas Ile ,S. Nicholas Iland. and midwaie betweene Falmouth and Dudman (a certeine Pro|montorie is such another named the Gréefe ,Greefe. wherein is great store of gulles & sea foule. As for Inis Pry|nin ,Inis Pry|nin. it lieth within the Baie, about three miles from Li|zards, and containeth not aboue two acres of ground, from which Newltjn is not far distant, and wherein is a poore fisher-towne and a faire wel-spring, wherof as yet no writer hath made mention. After these (omit|ting Pendinant in the point of Falmouth hauen) we came at last to saint Michaels mount,S. Micha|els mount. whereof I find this description readie to my hand in Leland.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 The compasse of the root of the mount of saint Mi|chael is not much more than halfe a mile, and of this the south part is pasturable and bréedeth conies, the resi|due high and rockie soile. In the north side thereof al|so is a garden, with certeine houses and shops for fisher|men. Furthermore, the waie to the mountaine lieth at the north side, and is frequented from halfe eb to halfe floud, the entrance beginning at the foot of the hill, and so ascending by steps and greeces westward, first; and then eastward to the vtter ward of the church. Within the same ward also is a court stronglie walled, wherein on the south side is a chapell of S. Michaell, and in the east side another of our ladie. Manie times a man may come to the hill on foot. On the north northwest side hereof also, is a Piere for botes and ships, and in the Baie betwixt the mount and Pensardz are seene at the lowe water marke, diuers roots and stubs of trées, beside hewen stone, sometimes of doores & windowes, which are perceiued in the inner part of the Baie, and import that there hath not onelie beene building, but al|so firme ground, whereas the salt water doth now rule and beare the maisterie. Beyond this is an other little Ile, called S. Clements Ile, of a chapell there de|dicated to that saint.S. Cle|ments Ile. It hath a little from it also the Ile called Mowshole, which is not touched in any Chard. As for Mowshole it selfe, it is a towne of the maine, called in Cornish Port Enis, that is, Portus insulae , whereof the said Ile taketh denomination, and in tin workes néere vnto the same there hath beene found of late, speare heds, battell axes, and swords of copper wrapped vp in linnen, and scarselie hurt with rust or other hinde|rance. Certes the sea hath won verie much in this cor|ner of our Iland, but chéefelie betwéene Mowshole and Pensardz.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Hauing thus passed ouer verie neere all such Iles, as lie vpon the south coast of Britaine, and now being come vnto the west part of our countrie, a sudden Pirie cat [...]heth hold of vs (as it did before, when we went to Iardsey) and carieth vs yet more westerlie a|mong the flats of Sylley. Such force dooth the south|east wind often shewe vpon poore trauellers in those parts,Sylley Iles or Syl. as the south and southwest dooth vpon stran|gers against the British coast, that are not skilfull of our rodes and harborowes. Howbeit such was our suc|cesse in this voiage, that we feared no rocks, more than did king Athelstane, when he subdued them (and soone after builded a colledge of preests at S. Burien, in performance of his vow made when he enterpri|sed this voiage for his safe returne) nor anie tempest of weather in those parts that could annoie our pas|sage. Perusing therefore the perils whereinto we were pitifullie plunged, we found the Syllane Ilands (pla|ces often robbed by the Frenchmen and Spaniards) to lie distant from the point of Cornewall, about three or foure hours sailing, or twentie English miles, as some men doo account it. There are of these (as I said) to the number of one hundreth fortie seauen in sight, whereof each one is greater or lesse than other, and most of them sometime inhabited: howbeit, there are twentie of them, which for their greatnesse and commodities ex|ceed all the rest. Thereto (if you respect their position) they are situat in maner of a circle or ring, hauing an huge lake or portion of the sea in the middest of them, which is not without perill to such as with small aduisement enter into the same. Certes it passeth my cunning, either to name or to describe all these one hundreth fourtie seauen, according to their estate; nei|ther haue I had anie information of them, more than I haue gathered by Leland, or gotten out of a map of their description, which I had sometime of Reginald Woolfe: wherfore omitting as it were all the rags, and such as are not worthie to haue anie time spent about EEBO page image 34 their particular descriptions, I will onelie touch the greatest, and those that lie togither (as I said) in ma|ner of a roundle.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 The first and greatest of these therefore,S. Maries Ile. called S. Maries Ile , is about fiue miles ouer, or nine miles in compasse. Therein also is a parish-church, and a poore towne belonging thereto, of threescore housholds, be|side a castell, plentie of corne, conies, wild swans, puffens, gulles, cranes, & other kinds of foule, in great abundance. This fertile Iland being thus viewed, we sailed southwards by the Norman rocke, and S. Maries sound vnto Agnus Ile, which is six miles ouer,Agnus Ile. and hath in like sort one towne or parish within the same of fiue or six housholds, beside no small store of hogs & conies of sundrie colours, verie profitable to their owners. It is not long since this Ile was left desolate, for when the inhabitants thereof returned from a feast holden in S. Maries Ile, they were all drowned, and not one person left aliue. There are also two other small Ilands, betwéene this and the Annot , whereof I find nothing worthie relation: for as both of them ioind togither are not comparable to the said Annot Annot. for greatnesse and circuit, so they want both hogs and conies, wherof An|not hath great plentie. There is moreouer the Minwi|sand, Minwisand. from whence we passe by the Smithy sound Smithy sound. (lea|uing thrée little Ilands on the left hand, vnto the Suar|tigan Suartigan. Iland, then to Rousuian , Rousuian. Rousuiar , Rousuiar. and the Creg|win , Cregwin. which seauen are (for the most part) replenished with conies onelie, and wild garlike, but void of wood & other commodities, sauing of a short kind of grasse, or here & there some firzes whereon their conies doo féed.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Leauing therefore these desert peeces, we incline a little toward the northwest, where we stumble or run vpon Moncarthat, Moncar|that. Inis Welseck , Inis Wel|seck. & Suethiall . Suethiall. We came in like sort vnto Rat Iland ,Rat Iland. wherein are so manie mon|strous rats, that if anie horsses, or other beasts, happen to come thither, or be left there by negligence but one night, they are sure to be deuoured & eaten vp, without all hope of recouerie. There is moreouer the Anwall Anwall. and the Brier, Brier. Ilands in like sort void of all good furni|ture, conies onelie excepted, and the Brier (wherein is a village, castell, and parish-church) bringeth foorth no lesse store of hogs, and wild foule, than Rat Iland doth of rats, whereof I greatlie maruell.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 By north of the Brier, lieth the Rusco , Rusco. which hath a Labell or Byland stretching out toward the southwest, called Inis widdon. Inis widdõ. This Rusco is verie neere so great as that of S. Maries. It hath moreouer an hold, and a parish within it, beside great store of conies and wild foule, whereof they make much gaine in due time of the yeare. Next vnto this we come to the Round Iland ,Round I|land. which is about a mile ouer, then to S. Lides S. Lides. Iland, (wherein is a parish-church dedicated to that Saint, be|side conies, wood, and wild foule, of which two later there is some indifferent store) the Notho, Notho. the Auing, Auing. (one of them being situat by south of another, and the Auing halfe a mile ouer, which is a iust halfe lesse than the Notho) and the Tyan , Tyan. which later is a great Iland, furnished with a parish-church, and no small plentie of conies as I heare.S. Martines. After the Tyan we come to S. Mar|tines Ile, wherein is a faire towne, the Ile it selfe being next vnto the Rusco for greatnesse, and verie well fur|nished with conies & fresh springs. Also betwixt this and S. Maries, are ten other, smaller, which reach out of the northeast into the southwest, as Knolworth, Knolworth. Sniuil|liuer, Sniuilliuer. Menwetham , Menwethã. Vollis. 1. Vollis. 1. Surwihe, Surwihe. Vollis. 2. Vollis. 2. Arthurs Arthurs Ile. Iland, Guiniliuer , Guiniliuer. Nenech Nenech. and Gothrois , Gothrois. whose estates are diuers: howbeit as no one of these is to be ac|counted great in comparison of the other, so they all yéeld a short grasse méet for sheepe and conies, as doo al|so the rest. In the greater Iles likewise (whose names are commonlie such as those of the townes or churches standing in the same) there are (as I here) sundry lakes, and those neuer without great plentie of wild foule, so that the Iles of Sylley, are supposed to be no lesse bene|ficiall to their lords, than anie other what soeuer, within the compasse of our Ile, or neere vnto our coasts. In some of them also are wild swine.Wild swine in Sylley. And as these Iles are supposed to be a notable safegard to the coast of Corne|wall, so in diuerse of them great store of tin is like|wise to be found. There is in like maner such plentie of fish taken among these same, that beside the feeding of their swine withall, a man shall haue more there for a penie, than in London for ten grotes. Howbeit their cheefe commoditie is made by Reigh, which they drie, cut in peeces, and carie ouer into little Britaine, where they exchange it there, for salt, canuas, readie monie, or o|ther merchandize which they doo stand in need of. A like trade haue some of them also, with Buckhorne or dried whiting, as I heare. But sith the author of this report did not flatlie auouch it, I passe ouer that fish as not in season of this time. Thus haue we viewed the richest and most wealthie Iles of Sylley, from whence we must direct our course eastwards, vnto the mouth of the Sauerne, and then go backe againe vnto the west point of Wales, continuing still our voiage along vp|on the west coast of Britaine, till we come to the Sol|uey whereat the kingdomes part, & from which foorth on we must touch such Ilands as lie vpon the west and north shore, till we be come againe vnto the Scotish sea, and to our owne dominions.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 From the point of Cornewall therefore, or promon|torie of Helenus Helenus. (so called, as some thinke, bicause He|lenus the son of Priamus Priamus. who arriued here with Brute lieth buried there, except the sea haue washed awaie his sepulchre) vntill we come vnto the mouth of Sa|uerne, we haue none Ilands at all that I doo know or heare of, but one litle Byland, Cape or Peninsula, which is not to be counted of in this place. And yet sith I haue spoken of it, you shall vnderstand, that it is called Pendinas , and beside that the compasse thereof is not aboue a mile, this is to be remembred farder thereof, how there standeth a Pharos or light therein, for ships which saile by those coasts in the night. There is also at the verie point of the said Pendinas, Pendinas. a chappell of saint Nicholas, beside the church of saint Ia , an Irish wo|man saint. It belonged of late to the Lord Brooke, but now (as I gesse) the Lord Mountioy enioieth it . There is also a blockhouse, and a péere in the eastside thereof, but the péere is sore choked with sand, as is the whole shore furthermore from S. Ies vnto S. Carantokes , inso|much that the greatest part of this Byland is now co|uered with sands, which the sea casteth vp, and this cala|mitie hath indured little aboue fiftie yeares, as the in|habitants doo affirme.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 There are also two rocks neere vnto Tredwy , and another not farre from Tintagell, all which many of the common sort doo repute and take for Iles: where|fore as one desirous to note all, I thinke it not best that these should be omitted: but to proceed. When we be come further, I meane vnto the Sauerne mouth, we meet the two Holmes, of which one is called Step|holme, and the other Flatholme , of their formes bée|ing in déed parcels of ground and low soiles fit for lit|tle else than to beare grasse for cattell, whereof they take those names. For Holme is an old Saxon word, applied to all such places. Of these also Stepholme li|eth south of the Flatholme, about foure or fiue miles; the first also a mile and an halfe, the other two miles or thereabout in length; but neither of them a mile and an halfe in breadth, where they doo seeme to be the broa|dest.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 It should séeme by some that they are not worthie to be placed among Ilands: yet othersome are of opini|on, that they are not altogither so base, as to be reputed amongst flats or rocks: but whatsoeuer they be, this is sure, that they oft annoie such passengers and mer|chants as passe and repasse vpon that riuer. Neither EEBO page image 35 doo I read of any other Iles which lie by east of these, saue onlie the Barri, Barri. and Dunwen: the first of which is so called of one Barroc, a religious man (as Gyral|dus saith) and is about a flight shot from the shore. Herin also is a rocke standing at the verie entrance of the cliffe, which hath a little rift or chine vpon the side, wherevnto if a man doo laie his eare, he shall heare a noise, as if smithes did worke at the forge, sometimes blowing with their bellowes, and sometimes stri|king and clinking with hammers, whereof manie men haue great wonder; Barri is a feight shot from the shore. and no maruell. It is about a mile in compasse, situat ouer against Aberbarry, and hath a chappell in it.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 2 Dunwen is so called of a church (dedicated to a Welsh woman saint,Dunwen. called Dunwen) that standeth there. It lieth more than two miles from Henrosser, right against Neuen , and hath within it two faire mils, & great store of conies. Certes if the sand increase so fast hereafter as it hath done of late about it, it will be vnited to the maine within a short season. Beyond these & toward the coast of Southwales lie two other Ilands, larger in quantitie than the Holmes, of which the one is called Caldee or Inis Pyr. Caldee. It hath a parish|church with a spire steeple, and a pretie towne belonging to the countie of Pembroke, and iurisdiction of one Da|uid in Wales. Leland supposeth the ruines that are found therein to haue béene of an old priorie some|times called Lille, which was a cell belonging to the monasterie of S. Dogmael, but of this I can saie no|thing. The other hight Londy, Londy. wherein is also a village or towne, and of this Iland the parson of the said towns is not onelie the captaine, but hath thereto weife, di|stresse, and all other commodities belonging to the same. It is little aboue sixteene miles from the coast of Wales, though it be thirtie from Caldée, and yet it ser|ueth (as I am informed) lord and king in Deuonshire. Moreouer in this Iland is great plentie of sheepe, but more conies, and therewithall of verie fine and short grasse for their better food & pasturage; likewise much Sampere vpon the shore, which is carried from thence in barrels. And albeit that there be not scarslie fourtie housholds in the whole, yet the inhabitants there with huge stones (alredie prouided) may kéepe off thousands of their enimies, bicause it is not possible for anie ad|uersaries to assaile them, but onelie at one place, and with a most dangerous entrance. In this voiage also we met with two other Ilands, one of them called Shepes Ile, the other Rat Ile ; the first is but a little plot lieng at the point of the Baie, before we come at the Blockhouse which standeth north of the same, at the verie entrie into Milford hauen vpon the eastside. By north also of Shepes Ile, and betwéene it & Stacke rocke, which lieth in the verie middest of the hauen, at another point is Rat Ile yet smaller than the former, but what commodities are to be found in them as yet I cannot tell.Schalmey. Schalmey the greater and the lesse lie northwest of Milford hauen a good waie. They belong both to the crowne, but are not inhabited, bicause they be so often spoiled with pirates.Schoncold. Schoncold Ile ioineth vnto great Schalmey, and is bigger than it, onlie a pas|sage for ships parteth them, whereby they are supposed to be one: Leland noteth them to lie in Milford hauen. Beside these also we found the Bateholme, Stocke|holme, Midland, and Gresholme Iles, and then dou|bling the Wellock point, we came into a Baie, where we saw saint Brides Iland , and another in the Sound betwéene Ramsey and the point , of all which Iles and such rocks as are offensiue to mariners that passe by them, it may be my hap to speake more at large here|after.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Limen (as Ptolomie calleth it) is situat ouer against S. Dauids in Wales (wherevnto we must néeds come,Limen or Ramsey. after we be past another little one, which some men doo call Gresholme ) & lieth directlie west of Schalmey. In a late map I find this Limen to be called in English Ramsey: Leland also confirmeth the same, and I can|not learne more thereof, than that it is much greater than anie of the other last mentioned (sithens I descri|bed the Holmes) and for temporall iurisdiction a mem|ber of Penbrookeshire, as it is vnto S. Dauids for mat|ters concerning the church. Leland in his commen|taries of England lib. 8. saieth that it contained thrée Ilets, whereof the bishop of S. Dauids is owner of the greatest, but the chanter of S. Dauids claimeth the se|cond, as the archdeacon of Cairmarden dooth the third. And in these is verie excellent pasture for sheepe and horses, but not for other horned beasts which lacke their vpper téeth by nature (whose substance is conuerted in|to the nourishment of their hornes) and therefore can|not bite so low. Next vnto this Ile we came to Mawr , Mawr. an Iland in the mouth of Mawr, scant a bow shoot o|uer, and enuironed at the low water with fresh, but at the high with salt, and here also is excellent catching of herings.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 After this, procéeding on still with our course, we fetched a compasse, going out of the north toward the west, and then turning againe (as the coast of the coun|trie leadeth) vntill we sailed full south, leauing the shore still on our right hand, vntill we came vnto a cou|ple of Iles, which doo lie vpon the mouth of the Soch , one of them being distant (as we gessed) a mile from the other, and neither of them of anie greatnesse al|most worthie to be remembred. The first that we came vnto is called Tudfall , and therein is a church,Tudfall. but without anie parishioners, except they be shéepe and conies. The quantitie thereof also is not much a|boue six acres of ground, measured by the pole. The next is Penthlin, Myrach, or Mererosse, Penthlin. situat in maner betwixt Tudfall or Tuidall and the shore, and herein is verie good pasture for horsses, wherof (as I take it) that name is giuen vnto it. Next vnto them, we come vnto Gwelyn , Guelyn. a little Ile which lieth southeast of the fall of Daron or Daren, a thing of small quantitie, and yet al|most parted in the mids by water, and next of all vnto Bardsey an Iland lieng ouer against Periuincle the southwest point or promontorie of Northwales (where Merlin Syluestris lieth buried) and whither the rest of the monks of Bangor did flie to saue themselues, when 2100. of their fellowes were slaine by the Saxon prin|ces in the quarell of Augustine the monke, & the citie of Caerleon or Chester raced to the ground, and not since reedified againe to anie purpose. Ptolomie calleth this Iland Lymnos, the Britons Enlhi , and therein also is a parish-church, as the report goeth. From hence we cast about, gathering still toward the northest, till we came to Caer Ierienrhod , a notable rocke situat ouer against the mouth of the Leuenni, wherein standeth a strong hold or fortresse, or else some towne or village. Certes we could not well discerne whether of both it was, bi|cause the wind blew hard at southwest, the morning was mistie, and our mariners doubting some flats to be couched not far from thence, hasted awaie vnto An|glesei, whither we went apace with a readie wind e|uen at our owne desire.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 This Iland (which Tacitus mistaketh no doubt for Mona Caesaris, and so dooth Ptolomie as appeareth by his latitudes) is situat about two miles from the shore of Northwales. Paulus Iouius gesseth that it was in time past ioined to the continent, or maine of our Ile,Anglesei cut from Wales by working of the sea. and onelie cut off by working of the Ocean, as Sicilia peraduenture was from Italie by the violence of the Leuant or practise of some king that reigned there. Thereby also (as he saith) the inhabitants were con|streind at the first to make a bridge ouer into the same, till the breach waxed so great, that no such passage could anie longer be mainteined. But as these things doo ei|ther not touch my purpose at all, or make smallie with the present description of this Ile: so (in comming to EEBO page image 36 my matter) Anglesei is found to be full so great as the Wight,Anglesei. and nothing inferiour, but rather surmoun|ting it, as that also which Caesar calleth Mona in fruit|fulnesse of soile by manie an hundred fold. In old time it was reputed and taken for the common granarie to Wales, as Sicilia was to Rome and Italie for their prouision of corne. In like maner the Welshmen themselues called it the mother of their countrie, for gi|uing their minds wholie to pasturage, as the most easie and lesse chargeable trade, they vtterlie neglected til|lage, as men that leaned onelie to the fertilitie of this Iland for their corne, from whence they neuer failed to receiue continuall abundance. Gyraldus saith that the Ile of Anglesei was no lesse sufficient to minister graine for the sustentation of all the men of Wales, than the mountaines called Ereri or Snowdoni in Northwales were to yeeld plentie of pasture for all the cattell whatsoeuer within the aforesaid compasse, if they were brought togither and left vpon the same. It contained moreouer so manie townes welnéere, as there be daies in a yeare, which some conuerting into Cantreds haue accompted but for three, as Gyraldus saith. Howbeit, as there haue beene I say 363. townes in Anglesei, so now a great part of that reckoning is vtterlie shroonke, and so far gone to decaie, that the ve|rie ruines of them are vnneath to be séene & discerned: and yet it séemeth to be méetlie well inhabited. Leland noting the smalnesse of our hundreds in comparison to that they were in time past, addeth (so far as I remem|ber) that there are six of them in Anglesei, as Menay, Maltraith, Liuon, Talbellion, Torkalin, and Tindaithin: herevnto Lhoid saith also how it belonged in old time vnto the kingdome of Guinhed or Northwales, and that therein at a towne called Aberfraw , being on the southwestside of the Ile, the kings of Gwinhed held euermore their palaces, whereby it came to passe, that the kings of Northwales were for a longtime called kings of Aberfraw, as the Welshmen named the kings of England kings of London, till better instru|ction did bring them farther knowledge.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 There are in Anglesei many townes and villages, whose names as yet I cannot orderlie atteine vnto: wherefore I will content my selfe with the rehearsall of so many as we viewed in sailing about the coasts, and otherwise heard report of by such as I haue talked withall. Beginning therefore at the mouth of the Gef|ni (which riseth at northeast aboue Gefni or Geuenni, 20. miles at the least into the land) we passed first by Hundwyn , then by Newborow , Port Hayton , Beau|marrais , Penmon , Elian , Almwoch , Burric (whereby runneth a rill into a creeke) Cornew, Holihed (stan|ding in the promontorie) Gwifen , Aberfraw , and Cair Cadwalader , of all which, the two latter stand as it were in a nuke betweene the Geuenni water, and the Fraw, wherevpon Aberfraw is situate. Within the Iland we heard onlie of Gefni afore mentioned, of Gristial standing vpon the same water, of Tefri, of La|nerchimedh , Lachtenfarwy and Bodedrin , but of all these the cheefe is now Beaumarais, which was builded sometime by king Edward the first, and therewithall a strong castell about the yeare 1295. to kéepe that land in quiet. There are also (as Leland saith) 31. parish|churches beside 69. chappels, that is, a hundreth in all. But héerof I can saie little, for lacke of iust instruction. In time past, the people of this Ile vsed not to seuerall their grounds, but now they dig stonie hillocks, and with the stones thereof they make rude walles, much like to those of Deuonshire, sith they want hedge|bote, fire bote, and house bote, or (to saie at one word) timber, bushes and trees. As for wine, it is so plenti|full and good cheape there most commonlie as in Lon|don, through the great recourse of merchants from France, Spaine, and Italie vnto the aforesaid Iland. The flesh likewise of such cattell as is bred there, wher|of we haue store yearelie brought vnto Cole faire in Essex is most delicate, by reason of their excellent pa|sture, and so much was it esteemed by the Romans in time past, that Columella did not onelie commend and preferre them before those of Liguria, but the em|perours themselues being neere hand also caused their prouision to be made for nete out of Anglesei, to feed vpon at their owne tables as the most excellent beefe. It taketh now the name of Angles and Ei, which is to meane the Ile of Englishmen, bicause they wan it in the Conquerors time , vnder the leading of Hugh earle of Chester, and Hugh of Shrewesburie. Howbeit they recouered it againe in the time of William Rufus, when they spoiled the citie of Glocester, ransacked Shrewes|burie, and returned home with great bootie and pillage, in which voiage also they were holpen greatlie by the Irishmen, who after thrée yeares ioined with them a|gaine, and slue the earle of Shrewesburie (which then liued) with great crueltie. The Welshmen call it Tire|mone and Mon, and herein likewise is a promontorie or Byland, called Holie head Holie head, or Cair kiby. (which hath in time past beene named Cair kyby, of Kyby a monke that dwel|led there) from whence the readiest passage is common|lie had out of Northwales to get ouer into Ireland, of which Ile I will not speake at this time, least I shuld bereaue another of that trauell. Yet Plinie saith, lib. 4. cap. 16. that it lieth not farre off from and ouer a|gainst the Silures, which then dwelled vpon the west coast of our Iland, and euen so farre as Dunbritton, and beyond: but to our Cair kybi. The Britons named it Enylsnach, or holie Ile, Enilsnach, holie Ile. of the number of carcases of holie men, which they affirme to haue beene buried there. But herein I maruell not a little, wherein women had offended, that they might not come thither, or at the least wise returne from thence without some notable reproch or shame vnto their bo|dies. By south also of Hilarie point, somewhat incli|ning toward the east, lieth Inis Lygod, a small thing (God wot) and therefore not worthie great remem|brance: neuertheles not to be omitted, though nothing else inforced the memoriall thereof, but onelie the number and certeine fale of such Iles as lie about our Iland. I might also speake of the Ile Mail Rony|ad , which lieth north west of Anglesei by sixe miles; but bicause the true name hereof, as of manie riuers and streames are to me vnknowne, I am the more willing to passe them ouer in silence, least I should be noted to be farther corrupter of such words as I haue no skill to deliuer and exhibit in their kind. And now to conclude with the description of the whole Iland, this I will ad moreouer vnto hir commodities, that as there are the best milstones of white, red, blew, and gréene gréets, (especiallie in Tindaithin) so there is great gaines to be gotten by fishing round about this Ile, if the people there could vse the trade: but they want both cunning and diligence to take that matter in hand. And as for temporall regiment, it apperteineth to the countie of Cairnaruon, so in spirituall cases it belongeth to the bi|shoprike of Bangor. This is finallie to be noted of An|glesei,Ancient buriall. that sundrie earthen pots are often found there of dead mens bones conuerted into ashes, set with the mouthes downeward contrarie to the vse of other na|tions, which turned the brims vpwards, whereof let this suffice.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Hauing thus described Anglesei, it resteth to report furthermore, how that in our circuit about the same, we met with other little Ilets, of which one lieth north|west thereof almost ouer against Butricke mouth, or the fall of the water, that passeth by Butricke. The Britons called it Ynis Ader, Adar. that is to say, the Ile of birds in old time, but now it hight Ynis Moil, Moil. or Ynis Rhomaid, Rhomaid. that is the Ile of porpasses. It hath to name likewise Ysterisd, Ysterisd. and Adros. Adros. Being past this, we came to the second lieng by north east, ouer against the Hilarie EEBO page image 37 point,Lygod. called Ynis Ligod, that is to saie, the Ile of Mise , and of these two this latter is the smallest, neither of them both being of any greatnesse to speake of. Ynis Seriall Seriall. or Prestholme, Prestholme lieth ouer against Penmon, or the point called the head of Mon, where I found a towne (as I told you) of the same denomination. Ptolomie nameth not this Iland, whereof I maruell. It is par|cell of Flintshire, and of the iurisdiction of S. Asaph, and in fertilitie of soile, and breed of cattell, nothing in|feriour vnto Anglesei hir mother: although that for quantitie of ground it come infinitelie short thereof, and be nothing comparable vnto it. The last Iland vp|on the cost of Wales, hauing now left Anglesei, is cal|led Credine , Credine. and although it lie not properlie within the compasse of my description, yet I will not let to touch it by the waie, sith the causey thither from Denbigh|land, is commonlie ouerflowne. It is partlie made an Iland by the Conwey, and partlie by the sea. But to pro|ceed, when we had viewed this place, we passed foorth to S. Antonies Ile, which is about two or thrée miles com|passe or more, a sandie soile, but yet verie batable for sheepe and cattell, it is well replenished also with fresh wels, great plentie of wild foule, conies and quarries of hard ruddie stone, which is oft brought thence to Westchester, where they make the foundations of their buildings withall. There are also two parish churches in the same, dedicated to S. Antonie and S. Iohn, but the people are verie poore, bicause they be so oft spoiled by pirats, although the lord of the same be verie weal|thie thorough the exchange made with them of his victuals, for their wares, whereof they make good peniworths, as théeues commonlie doo of such preies as they get by like escheat, notwithstanding their landing there is verie dangerous, and onlie at one place. How|beit they are constreined to vse it, and there to make their marts. From hence we went on, vntill we came to the cape of Ile Brée,Hilberie. or Hilberie , and point of Wyr|ale, from whence is a common passage into Ireland, of 18. or 20. houres sailing, if the wether be not tedi|ous. This Iland at the full sea is a quarter of a mile from the land, and the streame betwéene foure fadams déepe, as ship-boies haue oft sounded, but at a lowe wa|ter a man may go ouer thither on the sand. The Ile of it selfe is verie sandie a mile in compasse, and well sto|red with conies, thither also went a sort of supersticious fooles in times past, in pilgrimage, to our ladie of Hil|berie, by whose offerings a cell of monkes there, which belonged to Chester, was cherished and mainteined.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 The next Iland vpon the coast of England is Man or Mona Caesaris , which some name Mana or Manim, but after Ptolomie, Monaoida, as some thinke, though other ascribe that name to Anglesei, which the Welsh|men doo commonlie call Môn, as they doo this Manaw, It is supposed to be the first, as Hirtha is the last of the Hebrides. Hector Boetius noteth a difference betwéene them of 300. miles. But Plinie saith that Mona is 200000. miles from Camaldunum, lib. 2. cap. 75. It lieth also vnder 53. degrées of latitude, and 30. minuts, and hath in longitude 16. degrees and 40. minuts, abutting on the north side vpon S. Ninians in Scotland, Furnes|fels on the east, Prestholme and Anglesei on the south, and Ulsther in Ireland on the west. It is greater than Anglesei by a third, and there are two riuers in the same, whose heads doo ioine so néere, that they doo seeme in maner to part the Ile in twaine. Some of the anci|ent writers, as Ethicus, &c: call it Eubonia , Eubonia. and other following Orosius, Meuana Meuania. or Maeuania, howbeit after Beda and the Scotish histories, the Meuaniae are all those Iles aforesaid called the Hebrides, Eubonides, or Hebudes (whereof William Malmesburie, lib. 1. de regi|bus (beside this our Mona) will haue Anglesei also to be one. Wherefore it séemeth hereby that a number of our late writers ascribing the said name vnto Mona one|lie, haue not beene a little deceiued. Iornandes lib. de Ge|tis speaketh of a second Meuansa; Habet & aliam Me|uaniam (saith he) necnon & Orchadas. But which should be prima, as yet I do not read, except it should be Anglesei; and then saith Malmesburie well. In like sort Proper|tius speaketh of a Meuania, which he called Nebulosa, but he meaneth it euidentlie of a little towne in Um|bria where he was borne, lib. 4. eleg. De vrbe Rom. Wher|fore there néedeth no vse of his authoritie. This in the meane time is euident out of Orosius, lib, 1. capite 2 . that Scots dwelled somtime in this Ile, as also in Ireland, which Ethicus also affirmeth of his owne time, and fi|nallie confirmeth that the Scots and Irish were some|time one people. It hath in length 24. miles, and 8. in bredth, and is in maner of like distance from Gallo|way in Scotland, Ireland and Cumberland in Eng|land, as Buchanan reporteth.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 In this Iland also were some time 1300. families, of which 960. were in the west halfe, and the rest in the other. But now through ioining house to house & land to land (a common plague and canker, which will eat vp all, if prouision be not made in time to withstand this mischéefe) that number is halfe diminished, and yet many of the rich inhabiters want roome, and wote not how and where to bestowe themselues, to their quiet contentations. Certes this impediment groweth not by reason that men were greater in bodie, than they haue béene in time past, but onelie for that their insa|tiable desire of inlarging their priuate possessions in|creaseth still vpon them, and will doo more, except they be restrained: but to returne to our purpose. It was once spoiled by the Scots in the time of king Athel|stane, chéeflie by Anlafus in his flight from the bloudie battell , wherein Constantine king of Scotland was ouercome: secondlie by the Scots 1388 . after it came to the possession of the English, for in the beginning the kings of Scotland had this Iland vnder their do|minion, almost from their first arriuall in this Iland, and as Beda saith till Edwine king of the Northum|bers wan it from them, and vnited it to his kingdome. After the time of Edwine, the Scots gat the possession thereof againe, and held it till the Danes & Norwaies wan it from them, who also kept it (but with much trou|ble) almost 370. yeares vnder the gouernance of their viceroies, whome the kings of Norwaie inuested vnto that honor, till Alexander the third king of that name in Scotland recouered it from them, with all the rest of those Iles that lie vpon the west coast, called also Sodorenses in the daies of Magnus king of Norwaie. And sithens that time the Scotish princes haue not ceased to giue lawes to such as dwelled there, but also from time to time appointed such bishops as should ex|ercise ecclesiasticall iurisdiction in the same, till it was won from them by our princes, and so vnited vnto the realme of England. Finallie,Chronica Tinemuthi. how after sundrie sales bargains and contracts of matrimonie (for I read that William Scroope the kings Uicechamberleine, did buy this Ile and crowne thereof of the lord William Montacute earle of Sarum) it came vnto the ance|stours of the earles of Darbie, who haue béene com|monlie said to be kings of Man, the discourse folowing shall more at large declare. Giraldus noteth a conten|tion betwéene the kings of England & Ireland for the right of this Iland, but in the end, when by a compr [...]|mise the triall of the matter was referred to the liues or deaths of such venemous wormes as should be brought into the same, and it was found that they died not at all, as the like doo in Ireland, sentence passed with the king of England, & so he reteined the Iland. But howsoeuer this matter standeth, and whether anie such thing was done at all or not, sure it is that the peo|ple of the said Ile were much giuen to witchcraft and sorcerie (which they learned of the Scots a nation great|lie bent to that horible practise) in somuch that their women would oftentimes sell wind to the mariners, EEBO page image 38 inclosed vnder certeine knots of thred, with this in|iunction, that they which bought the same, should for a great gale vndoo manie, and for the lesse a fewer or smaller number.Tall men in Man. The stature of the men and also ferti|litie of this Iland are much commended, and for the latter supposed verie néere to be equall with that of An|glesei, in all commodities.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 There are also these townes therein, as they come now to my remembrance, Rushen , Dunglasse, Holme towne , S. Brids , Bala cury (the bishops house) S. Mich. S. Andrew , kirk Christ , kirk Louel , S. Mathees , kirk S. Anne , Pala sala , kirk S. Marie , kirk Concane , kirk Malu , and Home. But of all these Rushen with the castell is the strongest.Riuers. It is also in recompense of the common want of wood, indued with sundrie pretie waters, as first of al the Burne rising in the northside of Warehill botoms, and branching out by southwest of kirk S. An, it séemeth to cut off a great part of the eastside thereof, from the residue of that Iland. From those hils also (but of the south halfe) commeth the Holme and Hol|mey, by a towne of the same name, in the verie mouth whereof lieth the Pile afore mentioned. They haue also the Bala passing by Bala cury, on the westside, and the Rame on the north, whose fall is named Ramesei hauen , as I doo read in Chronicles.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 There are moreouer sundrie great hils therein, as that wherevpon S. Mathees standeth,Hilles. in the northeast part of the Ile, a parcell whereof commeth flat south, betwéene kirk Louell, and kirk Marie, yéelding out of their botoms the water Bala, whereof I spake before. Beside these and well toward the south part of the Ile, I find the Warehils, which are extended al|most from the west coast ouertwhart vnto the Burne streame. It hath also sundrie hauens, as Ramsei hauen,Hauens. by north Laxam hauen, by east Port Iris, by southwest Port Home, and Port Michell, by west. In like sort there are diuers Ilets annexed to the same, as the Calfe of man on the south,Calfe of man. the PileThe pile. S. Michels Ile. on the west, and finallie S. Michels Ile in the gulfe called Ranoths waie in the east. Moreouer the sheepeSheepe. of this countrie are excéeding huge, well woolled, and their tailes of such greatnesse as is almost incredible.Hogs. In like sort their hogs are in maner monstrous. They haue furthermore great store of barnacles bréeding vpon their coasts,Barnacles. but yet not so great store as in Ireland, and those (as there also) of old ships, ores, masts, peeces of rotten timber as they saie, and such putrified pitched stuffe, as by wrecke hath happened to corrupt vpon that shore. Howbeit neither the inhabitants of this Ile, nor yet of Ireland can rea|dilie saie whether they be fish or flesh,Barnacles neither fish nor flesh. for although the re|ligious there vsed to eat them as fish, yet elsewhere, some haue beene troubled, for eating of them in times prohibited for heretikes and lollards.
For my part, I haue béene verie desirous to vnder|stand the vttermost of the bréeding of barnacls, & que|stioned with diuers persons about the same. I haue red also whatsoeuer is written by forren authors touching the generation of that foule, & sought out some places where I haue béene assured to sée great numbers of them: but in vaine. Wherefore I vtterlie despaired to obteine my purpose, till this present yeare of Grace 1584. and moneth of Maie, wherein going to the court at Gréenewich from London by bote, I saw sundrie ships lieng in the Thames newlie come home, either from Barbarie or the Canarie Iles (for I doo not well remember now from which of these places) on whose sides I perceiued an infinit sort of shels to hang so thicke as could be one by another. Drawing néere also, I tooke off ten or twelue of the greatest of them, & afterward hauing opened them, I saw the proporti|on of a foule in one of them more perfectlie than in all the rest, sauing that the head was not yet formed, bi|cause the fresh water had killed them all (as I take it) and thereby hindered their perfection. Certeinelie the feathers of the taile hoong out of the shell at least two inches, the wings (almost perfect touching forme) were garded with two shels or shéeldes proportioned like the selfe wings, and likewise the brestbone had hir couerture also of like shellie substance, and altogither resembling the figure which Lobell and Pena doo giue foorth in their description of this foule: so that I am now fullie persuaded that it is either the barnacle that is ingendred after one maner in these shels, or some o|ther sea-foule to vs as yet vnknowen. For by the fea|thers appearing and forme so apparant, it cannot be de|nied, but that some bird or other must proceed of this substance, which by falling from the sides of the ships in long voiages, may come to some perfection. But now it is time for me to returne againe vnto my former purpose.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 There hath sometime beene, and yet is a bishop of this Ile,Bishop of Man. who at the first was called Episcopus Sodo|rensis, when the iurisdiction of all the Hebrides belong|ed vnto him. Whereas now he that is bishop there, is but a bishops shadow, for albeit that he beare the name of bishop of Man, yet haue the earles of Darbie, as it is supposed,Patrone of Man. the cheefe profit of his sée (sauing that they allow him a little somewhat for a flourish) notwith|standing that they be his patrons, and haue his nomi|nation vnto that liuing. The first bishop of this Ile was called Wimundus or Raymundus, and surna|med Monachus Sauinensis, who by reason of his ex|treame and tyrannicall crueltie toward the Ilanders, had first his sight taken from him, & then was sent into exile. After him succéeded another moonke in king Ste|phens daies called Iohn , and after him one Marcus , &c: other after other in succession, the sée it selfe being now also subiect to the archbishop of Yorke for spirituall iu|risdiction. In time of Henrie the second, this Iland also had a king,King of Man. whose name was Cuthred , vnto whome Vinianus the cardinall came as legate 1177. and wher|in Houeden erreth not. In the yeare also 1228. one Reginald was viceroy or petie king of Man, afterward murthered by his subiects. Then Olauus , after him Hos|bach the sonne of Osmond Hacon , 1290. who being slaine, Olauus and Gotredus parted this kingdome of Sodora, in such wise, that this had all the rest of the Iles, the other onelie the Ile of Man at the first; but af|ter the slaughter of Gotredus, Olauus held all, after whom Olauus his sonne succeeded. Then Harald sonne to Olauus, who being entered in Maie, and drow|ned vpon the coastes of Ireland, his brother Reginald reigned twentie and seuen daies, and then was killed the first of Iune, whereby Olauus aliàs Harald sonne to Gotred ruled in the Ile one yeare. Next vnto him succéeded Magnus the second sonne of Olauus , and last of all Iuarus , who held it so long as the Norwaies were lords thereof. But being once come into the hands of the Scots, one Godred Mac Mares was made lieutenant, then Alane, thirdlie Maurice Okarefer, and fourthlie one of the kings chapleines, &c. I would gladlie haue set downe the whole catalog of all the viceroyes and lieutenants: but sith I can neither come by their names nor successions, I surcesse to speake any more of them, and also of the Ile it selfe, whereof this may suffice.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 After we haue in this wise described the Ile of Man, with hir commodities, we returned eastwards backe againe vnto the point of Ramshed , where we found to the number of six Ilets of one sort and other, whereof the first greatest and most southwesterlie, is named the Wauay. It runneth out in length,Wauay. as we gessed, about fiue miles and more from the southeast into the north|west, betwéene which and the maine land lie two little ones, whose names are Oldborrow and Fowlney . The fourth is called the Fouldra, Fouldra. and being situate southeast of the first, it hath a prettie pile or blockhouse therin, which the inhabitants name the pile of Fouldra. EEBO page image 39 By east thereof in like sort lie the Fola Fola. Roa. and the Roa , plots of no great compasse, and yet of all these six, the first and Fouldra are the fairest and most fruitfull. From hence we went by Rauenglasse point,Rauenglasse. where lieth an Iland of the same denomination, as Regi|nald Wolfe hath noted in his great card, not yet fini|shed, nor likelie to be published. He noteth also two other Ilets, betwéene the same and the maine land; but Leland speaketh nothing of them (to my remem|brance) neither any other card, as yet set foorth of England: and thus much of the Ilands that lie vpon our shore in this part of my voiage.
Hauing so exactlie as to me is possible, set downe the names and positions of such Iles, as are to be found vpon the coast of the Quéenes Maiesties do|minions,Iles in Scot+land. now it resteth that we procéed orderlie with those that are séene to lie vpon the coast of Scotland, that is to saie, in the Irish, the Deucalidonian & the Germans seas, which I will performe in such order as I may, sith I cannot do so much therin as I would. Some therefore doo comprehend and diuide all the Iles that lie about the north coast of this Ile now cal|led Scotland into thrée parts, sauing that they are either occidentals, the west Iles, aliàs the Orchades & Zelandine, or the Shetlands. They place the first be|twéene Ireland and the Orchades, so that they are ex|tended from Man and the point of Cantire almost vn|to the Orchades in the Deucalidonian sea, and after some are called the Hebrides. In this part the old writers in déed placed the Hebrides or Hemodes, Hemodes of some called Acmodes, sée Plinie , Mela , Martianus, Capella . Plu|tarch. de defect. orac. which diuers call the Hebudes and the Acmodes; al|beit the writers varie in their numbers, some spea|king of 30 Hebudes and seuen Hemodes; some of fiue Ebudes, as Solinus , and such as follow his autho|ritie. Howbeit the late Scottish writers doo product a summe of more than 300 of these Ilands in all, which sometime belonged to the Scots, sometime to the Norwegians, and sometime to the Danes. The first of these is our Manaw , of which I haue before in|treated: next vnto this is Alisa a desert. Ile, yet re|plenished with conies, soland foule, and a fit harbor for fishermen that in time of the yeare lie vpon the coast thereof for herings. Next vnto this is the Ar|ran , a verie hillie and craggie soile, yet verie plenti|full of fish all about the coast, and wherein is a verie good hauen: ouer against the mouth whereof lieth the Moll, which is also no small defense to such seafaring men as seeke harbor in that part. Then came we by the Fladwa or Pladwa, no lesse fruitfull and stored with conies than the Bota, Bura, or Botha, or eight miles long & foure miles broad, a low ground but yet verie batable, and wherein is good store of short and indifferent pasture: it hath also a towne there called Rosse, and a castell named the Camps. There is also another called the Marnech , an Iland of a mile in length, and halfe a mile in breadth, low ground also but yet verie fertile. In the mouth likewise of the Glot, lieth the more Cumber and the lesse , not farre in sunder one from another, and both fruitfull inough the one for corne, and the other for Platyceraton. The Auon another Iland lieth about a mile from Cantire, and is verie commodious to ships, wherof it is called Auon, that is to saie, Portuosa, or full of harbor: and therefore the Danes had in time past great vse of it. Then haue we the Raclind, the Kyntar , the Cray , the Gegaw six miles in length and a mile and a halfe in breadth; the Dera full of déere, and not otherwise vn|fruitfull: and therefore some thinke that it was cal|led the Ile of déere in old time.Scarba. Scarba foure miles in length, and one in breadth, verie little inhabi|ted, and thereinto the sea betwéene that and the Ile of déere is so swift and violent, that except it be at certeine times, it is not easilie nauigable. Being past these, we come to certeine Ilands of no great fame, which lie scattered here and there, as Bellach , Gyra|stell , Longaie , both the Fiolas , the thrée Yarues , Cul|brenin , Duncomell , Lupar , Belnaua , Wikerua, Cal|file, Luing , Sele Ile , Sound , of which the last thrée are fruitfull, and belong to the earle of Argile. Slate Ile. Then haue we the Slate , so called of the tiles that are made ther|in. The Nagsey, Isdalf , and the Sken (which later is also called Thian, of a wicked herbe growing there great|lie hurtfull, and in colour not much vnlike the lillie, sauing that it is of a more wan and féeble colour) V|derga, kings Ile , Duffa or blacke Ile , Kirke Ile, and Triarach. There is also the Ile Ard, Humble Ile, Greene Ile, and Heth Ile, Arbor Ile, Gote Ile , Co|nies Ile alias idle Ile , Abrid Ile or bird Ile , and Lis|mor , wherein the bishop of Argill sometime held his palace, being eight miles in length and two miles in breadth, and not without some mines also of good met|tall. There is also the Ile Ouilia , Siuna , Trect, She|pey, Fladaw , Stone Ile , Gresse , great Ile , Ardis, Mu|sadell , & Berner , sometime called the holie sanctuarie, Vghe Ile, Molochasgyr , and Drinacha, now ouer|growne with bushes, elders, and vtterlie spoiled by the ruines of such great houses as haue hereto|fore béene found therin. There is in like sort the Wijc, the Ranse , and the Caruer .
Compare 1577 edition: 1 In this tract also, there are yet thrée to intreat of,Ila. as Ila , Mula and Iona , of which the first is one of the most, that hath not béene least accounted of. It is not much aboue 24 miles in length, and in breadth 16 reaching from the south into the north, and yet it is an excéeding rich plot of ground verie plentious of corne, cattell, déere, and also lead, and other mettals, which were easie to be obteined, if either the people were industrious, or the soile yéeldable of wood to fine and trie out the same. In this Iland also there is a lake of swéet water called the Laie, and also a baie wherein are sundrie Ilands; and therevnto another lake of fresh water, wherein the Falangam Ile is situate, wherein the souereigne of all the Iles some|time dwelled.Round Ile. Néere vnto this is the round Ile , so called of the consultations there had: for there was a court sometime holden, wherein 14 of the princi|pall inhabitants did minister iustice vnto the rest, and had the whole disposition of things committed vnto them, which might rule vnto the benefit of those Ilands. There is also the Stoneheape, an other Iland so called of the heape of stones that is therein. On the south side also of Ila, we find moreouer the Colurne , Mulmor , Osrin , Brigidan , Corkerke , Humble Ile , Imersga , Bethy, Texa , Shepeie , Naosig, Rinard, Cane, Tharscher , Aknor, Gret Ile , Man Ile , S. Iohns Ile , and Stackbed . On the west side thereof also lieth O|uersey , whereby runneth a perilous sea, and not naui|gable, but at certeine houres, Merchant Ile , Vsa|brast, Tanask , Neff , Wauer Ile, Oruans , Hog Ile, and Colauanso .
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Mula is a right noble Ile, 24 miles in length and so manie in bredth,Mula. rough of soile, yet fruitfull enough: & beside woods, deere, & good harbrough for ships, reple|nished with diuers and sundrie townes and castels. Ouer against Columkill also, it hath two riuers, which yeld verie great store of salmons, and other ri|uellets now altogither vnfruitfull, beside two lakes, in each of which is an Iland: and likewise in euerie of these Ilands a castell. The sea beating vpon this Ile, maketh foure notable baies wherein great plen|tie and verie good herrings are taken. It hath also in the northwest side Columbria , or the Ile of doues; on the southeast, Era : both verie commodious for fi|shing, cattell, and corne. Moreouer, this is woorth the noting in this Ile aboue all the rest, that it hath a ple|sant spring, arising two miles in distance from the shore, wherein are certeine little egs found, much like vnto indifferent pearles, both for colour and bright|nesse, EEBO page image 40 and thereto full of thicke humour, which egs be|ing carried by violence of the fresh water vnto the salt, are there within the space of twelue houres conuerted into great shels, which I take to be mo|ther pearle; except I be deceiued.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Iona was sometime called Columkill,Iona. in fame and estimation nothing inferiour to anie of the o|ther, although in length it excéed little aboue two miles, and in breadth one. Certes it is verie fruit|full of all such commodities, as that climat where|in it standeth dooth yeeld, and beareth the name of Co|lumbus the abbat, of whome I haue spoken more at large in my Chronologie. There were somtimes al|so two monasteries therein, one of moonks builded by Fergus , another of nuns: and a parish church, beside many chappels builded by the Scotish kings, and such princes as gouerned in the Iles. And when the English had once gotten possession of the Ile of Manaw, a bishops see was erected in the old mona|sterie of Columbus, whereby the iurisdiction of those Iles was still mainteined and continued. Certes there remaine yet in this Iland the old burials apper|tein [...]ng to the most noble families that had dwelled in the west Iles; but thrée aboue other are accomp|ted the most notable, which haue little houses buil|ded vpon them. That in the middest hath a stone, whereon is written,Regum tu|muli. Tumuli regum Scotiae, The burials of the kings of Scotland: for (as they saie) fourtie eight of them were there interred. Another is inti|tuled with these words, The burials of the kings of Ireland, bicause foure of them lie in that place. The third hath these words written thereon, The graues of the kings of Norwaie, for there eight of them were buried also, and all through a fond suspicion conceiued of the merits of Columbus. Howbeit in processe of time, when Malcolme Cammor had erec|ted his abbeie at Donfermeling , he gaue occasion to manie of his successors to be interred there.
About this Iland there lie six other Iles dispersed, small in quantitie, but not altogither barren, some|times giuen by the kings of Scotland and lords of the Iles vnto the abbeie of saint Columbus, of which the Soa, albeit that it yeeld competent pasturage for shéepe, yet is it more commodious, by such egs as the great plentie of wildfoule there breeding doo laie within the same.The Ile of Shrewes. Then is there the Ile of Shrewes or of women ; as the more sober heads doo call it. Also Rudan , & next vnto that, the Rering . There is also the Shen halfe a mile from Mula, whose bankes doo swarme with conies: it hath also a parish church, but most of the inhabitants doo liue and dwell in Mula. There is also the Eorse or the Arse , and all these be|long vnto saint Columbus abbeie. Two miles from Arse is the Olue , an Iland fiue miles in length, and sufficientlie stored with corne and grasse, & not with|out a good hauen for ships to lie and harbor in. There is also the Colfans , an Iland fruitfull inough, and full of cornell trées. There is not far off also the Go|mater , Stafa , the two Kerneburgs , and the Mosse Ile , in the old Brittish speech called Monad, that is to saie Mosse.Mosse Ile. The soile of it is verie blacke, bicause of the corruption & putrefaction of such woods as haue rotted thereon: wherevpon also no small plentie of mosse is bred and ingendered. The people in like maner make their fire of the said earth, which is ful|lie so good as our English turffe. There is also the Long , & six miles further toward the west, Tirreie , which is eight miles in length and thrée in breadth, & of all other one of the most plentifull for all kinds of commodities: for it beareth corne, cattell, fish, and seafowle aboundantlie. It hath also a well of fresh water, a castell, and a verie good hauen for great ves|sels to lie at safegard in. Two miles from this also is the Gun , and the Coll two miles also from the Gun. Then passed we by the Calfe , a verie wooddie Iland, the foure gréene Iles , the two glasse or skie I|lands, the Ardan , the Ile of woolfes , & then the great Iland which reacheth from the east into the west, is sixteene miles in length, and six in breadth, full of mounteins and swelling woods: and for asmuch as it is not much inhabited, the seafoules laie great plentie of egs there, whereof such as will, may ga|ther what number them listeth. Upon the high cliffes and rocks also the Soland géefe are taken verie plentifullie. Beyond this, about foure miles also is the Ile of horsses: and a little from that the hog I|land , which is not altogither vnfruitfull. There is a falcon which of custome bréedeth there, and therevn|to it is not without a conuenient hauen. Not farre off also is the Canna , and the Egga , little Iles, but the later full of Soland géefe. Likewise the Sobra|till , more apt to hunt in than méet for anie other commoditie that is to be reaped thereby.
After this we come to the Skie ,Skie. the greatest Ile about all Scotland: for it is two and fortie miles long; and somewhere eight, & in some places twelue miles broad: it is moreouer verie hillie, which hilles are therevnto loaden with great store of wood, as the woods are with pasture, the fields with corne and cattell; and (besides all other commodities) with no small heards of mares, whereby they raise great ad|uantage and commoditie. It hath fiue riuers verie much abounding with salmons, and other fresh streams not altogither void of that prouision. It is inuironed also with manie baies, wherein great plentie of herrings is taken in time of the yéere. It hath also a noble poole of fresh water; fiue castels and sundrie townes; as Aie, S. Iohns, Dunwegen , S. Nicholas, &c. The old Scots called it Skianacha, that is, Winged, but now named Skie. There lie cer|teine small Ilands about this also, as Rausa a ba|table soile for corne & gras; Conie Iland full of woods and conies; Paba a theeuish Iland, in whose woods théeues do lurke to rob such as passe by them. Scalpe Ile , which is full of deere; Crowling , wherein is ve|rie good harbour for ships; Rarsa , full of béechen woods and stags, being in length seuen miles, and two in breadth. The Ron , a woodie Ile and full of heath: yet hath it a good hauen, which hath a little I|land called Gerloch on the mouth thereof, and there|in lurke manie théeues. There is not farre off from this Ron, to wit about six miles also, the Flad, the Tiulmen , Oransa , Buie the lesse, and Buie the more , and fiue other little trifling Iles, of whose names I haue no notice.
After these we come vnto the Ise , a pretie fer|tile Iland, to the Oue, to the Askoome , to the Lindill . And foure score miles from the Skie towards the west, to the Ling , the Gigarmen , the Berner, the Magle , the Pable , the Flab , the Scarpe , the San|der , the Uateras , which later hath a noble hauen for great ships, beside sundrie other commodities: and these nine last rehearsed are vnder the dominion of the bishop of the Iles. After this we come to the Bar, Bar. an Iland seauen miles in length, not vnfruit|full for grasse and corne, but the chiefe commoditie thereof lieth by taking of herrings, which are there to be had abundantlie. In one baie of this Iland there lieth an Islet, and therein standeth a strong castell. In the north part hereof also is an hill which beareth good grasse from the foot to the top, and out of that riseth a spring, which running to the sea, doth carrie withall a kind of creature not yet perfectlie for|med, which some do liken vnto cockels; and vpon the shore where the water falleth into the sea, they take vp a kind of shelfish, when the water is gone, which they suppose to be ingendred or increased after this manner. Betwéene the Barre and the Uisse lie also EEBO page image 41 these Ilands, Orbaus , Oue, Hakerset , Warlang , Flad , the two Baies , Haie, Helsaie , Gigaie , Lin|gaie , Fraie , Fudaie , and Friskaie. The Uisse is thirtie miles long and six miles broad; and therein are sundrie fresh waters, but one especiallie of three miles in length: neuerthelesse, the sea hath now of late found a waie into it, so that it cannot be kept off with a banke of three score foot, but now and then it will flowe into the same, and leaue sea-fish behind it in the lake. There is also a fish bred therein al|most like vnto a salmon, sauing that it hath a white bellie, a blacke backe, and is altogither without scales: it is likewise a great harbour for théeues and pirats.
Eight miles beyond this lieth the Helscher , appertinent to the nuns of Iona: we haue then the Hasker , verie plentifullie benefited by seales, which are there taken in time of the yéere. Thrée score miles from this also is the Hirth , whose inhabitants are rude in all good science and religion; yet is the Iland verie fruitfull in all things, and bringeth foorth shéepe farre greater than are else-where to be found, for they are as big as our fallow deare, horned like bugles, and haue their tailes hanging to the ground. He that is owner of this Ile,Baptisme without preests. sendeth ouer his bai|liffe into the same at midsummer, to gather in his du|ties, and with him a préest to saie masse, and to bap|tise all the children borne since that time of the yéere precedent: or if none will go ouer with him (bicause the voiage is dangerous) then doth each father take paine to baptise his owne at home. Their rents are paid commonlie in dried seales and sea foule. All the whole Ile is not aboue a mile euerie waie; and ex|cept thrée mounteines that lie vpon one part of the shore, such as dwell in the other Iles can see no part thereof.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Being past the Uisse, we came after to Wa|laie , the Soa , the Strome , to Pabaie , to Barner , Ensaie , Killiger , the two Sagas , the Hermodraie , Scarfe , Grie , Ling , Gilling , Heie , Hoie , Farlaie, great So, little So , Ise , Sein the more, Sein the lesse, Tarant , Slegan, Tuom, Scarpe , Hareie , and the seauen holie Ilands , which are desert and bréed nothing but a kind of wild shéepe,Wild sheepe. which are often hunted, but seldome or neuer eaten. For in stéed of flesh they haue nothing but tallow; and if anie flesh be, it is so vnsauorie, that few men care to eate of it, except great hunger compell them. I suppose, that these be the wild sheepe which will not be tamed; and bicause of the horrible grenning thereof, is taken for the bastard tiger. Their haire is betweene the wooll of a sheepe,Tigers. and the haire of a goat, resembling both, shacked, and yet absolutelie like vnto neither of both: it maie be also the same beast which Capitolinus cal|leth Ouis fera, shewed in the time of Gordian the em|perour; albeit that some take the same for the Ca|melopardalis: but hereof I make no warrantise.
There is also not farre off the Garuell, the Lambe, the Flad , the Kellas, the two Bernars , the Kirt , the two Buies , the Uixaie , the Pabaie , the two Si|grams , and the Ile of Pigmeies Ile of Pig|meies. (which is so called vpon some probable coniecture) for manie little sculs and bones are dailie there found déepe in the ground, perfectlie, resembling the bodies of children; & not a|nie of greater quantities, wherby their coniecture (in their opinion) is the more likelie to be true. There is also the Fabill Ile , Adams Ile , the Ile of Lambes , Hulmes , Uiccoll, Haueraie , Cax , Era, Columbes Ile , Tor Ile , Iffurd , Scalpe , Flad , and the Swet ; on whose east side is a certeine vault or caue, arched o|uer, a flight shoot in length, wherevnto meane ships do vse to runne for harbour with full saile when a tempest ouertaketh them, or the raging of the sea, in those parts do put them in danger of wrecke. Also we passed by the old castell Ile, which is a pretie and, verie commodious plat for fish, foule, egges, corne and pasture. There is also the Ile Eust or Eu , which is full of wood, and a notable harbour for théeues, as is also the Grinort ; likewise the preests Ile , which is verie full of sea foule and good pasture. The Afull , the two Herbrerts , to wit, the greater and the lesse; and the Iles of Horsses , and Mertaika : and these 8 lie ouer against the baie which is called the Lake Brian . After this, we go toward the north, and come to the Haraie , and the Lewis or the Leug , both which make (in truth) but one Iland of thrée score miles in length, and sixtéene in breadth, being distinguished by no water, but by huge woods, bounds, and limits of the two owners that doo possesse those parts. The south part is called Haraie, and the whole situate in the Deucalidon sea, ouer against the Rosse, & called Thule by Tacitus , Lewis called Thule by Tacitus, with no better authoritie than the An|gleseie Mona. wherein are manie lakes, and verie pretie villages, as lake Erwi [...]n, lake Unsalsago: but of townes, S. Clements, Stoie, Nois, S. Co|lumbane, Radmach, &c. In like sort, there are two churches, whereof one is dedicated to saint Peter, an other to S. Clement, beside a monasterie called Roadill . The soile also of this Ile is indifferent fruit|full; but they reape more profit vnder the ground than aboue, by digging. There is neither woolfe, fox, nor serpent séene in this Iland; yet are there great woods therein, which also separate one part from the other. Likewise there be plentie of stags, but farre lesse in quantitie than ours: and in the north part of the Iland also is a riuer which greatlie aboundeth with salmons. That part also called Lewisa, which is the north half of the Ile is well inhabited toward the sea coasts, and hath riuers no lesse plentifull for sal|mon than the other halfe. There is also great store of herrings taken, whereof the fisher men doo raise great gaine and commoditie; and no lesse plentie of sheepe, which they doo not sheere, but plucke euerie yeere; yet is the ground of this part verie heathie, and full of mosse, and the face thereof verie swart and blacke, for the space of a foot in depth, through the corruption of such woods as in time past haue rotted on the same. And therefore in time of the yeere they conuert it into turffe to burne, as néede shall serue; and in the yéere after, hauing well doonged it in the meane time with slawke of the sea, they sowe bar|leie in the selfe places where the turffes grew, and reape verie good corne, wherewith they liue and féed. Such plentie of whales also are taken in this coast,Tithe whales. that the verie tithe hath béene knowne, in some one yéere, to amount vnto seauen and twentie whales of one greatnesse and other. This is notable also in this part of the Ile, that there is a great caue two yards déepe of water when the sea is gone, and not aboue foure when it is at the highest; ouer which great numbers doo sit of both sexes and ages, with hooks and lines, and catch at all times an infinite deale of fish, wherewith they liue, and which maketh them also the more idle.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Being past this about sixtie miles, we come vnto the Rona, or Ron , which some take for the last of the Hebrides, distant (as I said) about fortie miles from the Orchades, and one hundreth and thirtie from the promontorie of Dungishe . The inhabitants of this Ile are verie rude and irreligious, the lord also of the soile dooth limit their number of housholds, & hauing assigned vnto them what numbers of the greater and smaller sorts of cattell they shall spend and inioie for their owne prouision, they send the ouerplus yéerlie vnto him to Lewis. Their cheefe paiments consist of a great quantitie of meale, which is verie plenti|full among them, sowed vp in shéepes skins. Also of mutton and sea foule dried, that resteth ouer and a|boue, which they themselues do spend. And if it happen EEBO page image 42 that there be more people in the Iland than the lords booke or rate dooth come vnto, then they send also the ouerplus of them in like maner vnto him: by which means they liue alwaies in plentie. They receiue no vices from strange countries, neither know or heare of anie things doone else-where than in their owne Iland. Manie whales are taken also vpon their coasts, which are likewise replenished with seale, and porpasse, and those which are either so tame, or so fierce, that they abash not at the sight of such as looke vpon them, neither make they anie hast to flie out of their presence.
Beyond this Ile, about 16 miles westward, there is another called Suilscraie ,Suilscraie. of a mile length, void of grasse, and without so much as heath growing vpon hir soile: yet are there manie cliffes and rocks there|in, which are couered with blacke mosse, whereon in|numerable sorts of foules do bréed and laie their egs. Thither in like sort manie doo saile from Lewissa, to take them yoong in time of the yeare, before they be able to flie, which they also kill and drie in eight daies space, and then returne home againe with them, and great plentie of fethers fathered in this voiage. One thing is verie strange and to be noted in this Iland, of the Colke foule,Colke foule. which is little lesse than a goose; and this kind commeth thither but once in the yeare, to wit, in the spring, to laie hir egs and bring vp hir yoong, till they be able to shift for themselues, & then they get them awaie togither to the sea, and come no more vntill that time of the yéere which next insueth. At the same season also they cast their fethers there, as it were answering tribute to nature for the vse of hir mossie soile: wherein it is woonderfull to sée, that those fethers haue no stalkes, neither anie thing that is hard in them, but are séene to couer their bo|dies as it were wooll or downe, till breeding time (I saie) wherein they be left starke naked.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 The Orchades (whose first inhabitants were the Scithians,Orchades. which came from those Iles where the Gothes did inhabit, as some sparks yet remaining among them of that language doo declare) lie partlie in the Germaine, and partlie in the Calidon seas, ouer against the point of Dunghisbie (being in number eight and twentie, or as other saie thirtie & one, yet some saie thirtie thrée, as Orosius, but Plinie saith fortie ) and now belonging to the crowne of Scotland, as are the rest whereof héeretofore I haue made report, since we crossed ouer the mouth of the Solueie streame, to come into this countrie. Certes the people of these Islands reteine much of their old sparing diets, and therevnto they are of goodlie sta|ture, tall, verie comelie, healthfull, of long life, great strength, whitish colour, as men that feed most vpon fish; sith the cold is so extreame in those parts, that the ground bringeth foorth but small store of wheate, and in maner verie little or no fuell at all, wherewith to warme them in the winter, and yet it séemeth that (in times past) some of these Ilands also haue béene well replenished with wood, but now they are without either trée or shrub, in stéed whereof they haue plen|tie of heath, which is suffered to grow among them, rather thorough their negligence, than that the soile of it selfe will not yéeld to bring foorth trées & bushes. For what store of such hath beene in times past, the roots yet found and digged out of the ground doo yéeld sufficient triall. Otes they haue verie plenti|fullie, but greater store of barleie, wherof they make a nappie kind of drinke, and such indéed, as will verie readilie cause a stranger to ouershoot himselfe. How|beit this may be vnto vs in lieu of a miracle, that al|though their drinke be neuer so strong, & they them|selues so vnmeasurable drinkers (as none are more) yet it shall not easilie be séene (saith Hector ) that there is anie drunkard among them,If he speake all in truth. either frantike, or mad man, dolt, or naturall foole, meet to weare a cockescombe.
This vnmeasurable drinking of theirs is confes|sed also by Buchanan , who noteth, that whensoeuer anie wine is brought vnto them from other soiles, they take their parts thereof aboundantlie. He ad|deth moreouer, how they haue an old bole (which they call S. Magnus bole, who first preached Christ vnto them) of farre greater quantitie than common boles are, and so great, that it may séeme to be reser|ued since the Lapithane banket , onelie to quaffe and drinke in. And when anie bishop commeth vnto them, they offer him this bole full of drinke, which if he be able to drinke vp quite at one draught; then they assure themselues of good lucke, and plentie after it. Neuerthelesse this excesse is not often found in the common sort, whom penurie maketh to be more fru|gall; but in their priests, and such as are of the richer calling. They succour pirats also, and verie often ex|change their vittels with their commodities, rather for feare and want of power to resist (their Ilands li|eng so scattered) than for anie necessitie of such gains as they doo get by those men: for in truth, they thinke themselues to haue little need of other furniture than their owne soiles doo yéeld and offer vnto them. This is also to be read of the inhabitants of these Ilands, that ignorance of excesse is vnto the most part of them in stéed of physicke; and labour and trauell a me|dicine for such few diseases as they are molested and incombred withall.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 In like sort they want venemous beasts, cheefe|lie such as doo delight in hotter soile, and all kinds of ouglie creatures. Their ewes also are so full of in|crease, that some doo vsuallie bring foorth two, three, or foure lambes at once, whereby they account our anelings (which are such as bring foorth but one at once) rather barren than to be kept for anie gaine. As for wild and tame foules, they haue such plentie of them, that the people there account them rather a burthen to their soile, than a benefit to their tables: they haue also neat and gotes, whereby they abound in white meat, as butter and cheese: wherein, next vnto fish, the chéefe part of their sustenance dooth con|sist. There is also a bishop of the Orchades, who hath his see in Pomona the chéefe of all the Ilands, where|in also are two strong castels, and such hath béene the superstition of the people here, that there is almost no one of them, that hath not one church at the least dedicated to the mother of Christ. Finallie, there is little vse of physicke in these quarters, lesse store of éeles, and least of frogs. As for the horsses that are bred amongst them, they are commonlie not much greater than asses, and yet to labour and trauell, a man shall find verie few else-where, able to come neere, much lesse to match with them, in holding out their iournies. The seas about these Ilands are ve|rie tempestuous, not onelie through strong winds, and the influences of the heauens and stars; but by the contrarie méetings and workings of the west o|cean, which rageth so vehementlie in the streicts, that no vessell is able to passe in safetie amongst them. Some of these Ilands also are so small and low, that all the commoditie which is to be reaped by anie of them, is scarselie sufficient to susteine one or two men: and some of them so barren and full of rocks, that they are nothing else but mosse or bare shingle. Wherefore onelie thirteene of them are inhabited and made account of, the rest being left vnto their sheepe and cattell. Of all these Ilands also Pomona is the greatest, and therfore called the continent, which con|teineth thirtie miles in length, and is well repleni|shed with people: for it hath twelue parish churches, and one towne, which the Danes (sometime lords of that Iland) called Cracouia :Kirkwa. but now it hight Kirk|wa. EEBO page image 43 There are also two pretie holds, one belonging to the king, the other to the bishop: and also a beauti|full church, and much building betweene the two holds, and about this church, which being taken as it were for two townes, the one is called the kings and the other the bishops towne. All the whole Iland is full of cliffes and promontories, whereby no small number of baies and some hauens are producted.
There is also tin and lead to be found in six of these Iles, so good and plentifullie as anie where else in Britaine. It lieth foure & twentie miles from Cath|nesse, being separated from the same by the Pic|tish sea: wherein also lie certeine Ilands, as Stro|ma , foure miles from Cathnesse, which albeit that it be but foure miles from Cathnesse, is not reputed for anie of the Orchades. Going therefore from hence northward, we come to the first Ile of the Orchades, called south Rauals , which is sixtéene miles from Dunghilsbie, aliàs Dunachisbie, & that in two houres space, such is the swiftnesse of the sea in that tract. This Ile is fiue miles long, and hath a faire port cal|led saint Margarets hauen . Then passe we by two desert Iles, which lie towards the east, wherein no|thing is found but cattell: some call them the hol|mes, bicause they lie low, and are good for nothing but grasse. On the northside lieth the Bur , and two other holmes betweene the same Pomona. From Bur, to|ward the west lie thrée Iles, Snu, Flat , and Far : and beyond them Hoie and Uall , which some accompt for two, and other but for one; bicause that in March and September, the flats that lie betwéene them, doo séeme to ioine them togither, after the tide is gone. This neuerthelesse is certeine, that in this single or double Ile, which is ten miles in length, the highest hilles are to be séene that are in all the Orchades. And as they lie eight miles from Rauals, so are they two miles from Pomona, from saint Donats in Scotland full twentie miles. And on the north side of it lieth the Brainse, in a narrow streict, as Bucha|nan dooth remember. And these are the Iles which lie betweene Pomona and Cathnesse. As for the west side of the continent, I find that it lieth open to the sea, without either shelues, Ilands, or rocks, appée|ring néere vnto it: but on the east side thereof Co|besa dooth in maner ouershadow it. Siapiusa also an Ile of six miles long, lieth within two miles of Cra|couia. Toward the east, on the west side of Pomo|na lieth the Rouse , of six miles in length: and by east of that, the Eglisa , wherin (as they saie) their patrone S. Magnus lieth interred. From hense southward lie the Uera Gersa , and not far off the Uester (which is fourescore miles from Hethland) Papa , & Stron|za , which is also eightie miles from Hethland as the Uester. In the middest also of this tract lieth Far , or Fara, which is to saie, faire Ile, in old English, faire eie: and within sight so well of Hethland, as the Or|chades, by reason of three insuperable rocks which are apparant in the same: a verie poore Iland, and yet yearelie robbed (of such commodities as it hath) by such Flemish and English fishermen as passe by the coasts thereof in time of the yeare, to catch fish for the prouision of their countries.
Next vnto this is the greatest of all the Hethlands , an Iland called the Maine , sixtie miles in length, and sixteene in bredth, full of rocks, and whose coasts are onelie inhabited, the innermost parts being lest vnto the foules of the aire, bicause of the barrennesse and vnfruitfulnesse of the soile: yet of late some haue indeuoured to impeople it, but with no successe cor|respondent to their desire. Wherefore they returned to their former trades, making their chéefe commo|ditie and yearelie gaine by fish, as aforetime. Ten miles from this toward the north, lieth the Zeale , twentie miles in length, eight in bredth, and so wild that it will suffer no creature to liue thereof, that is not bred therein. Betwéene this Iland also and the Maine, are other smaller Ilands to be found, as the Ling , Orne, Big , and Sanferre . And from hense nine miles northward Usta , twentie miles long, & six in bredth, plaine, pleasant, but inuironed with a swift and terrible sea. Betwéene this also and the Zeale, are the Uie , the Ure , and the Ling: also to|wards the west, the two Skenes , Chalseie , Nord|wade, Brase , and Mowse , on the west side lie the west Skenes , Rottia , Papa the lesse , Wunned, Papa the more , Ualla , Tondra , Burra , Haura the more, Haura the lesse , & in maner so manie holmes dispersed heere and there, whereof I haue no notice. Some call these the Shetland, and some the Shotland Iles. Buchanan nameth them in the third member of his diuision Zelandise, and toward the end of his first booke seemeth to auouch, that they liue in maner as doo the inhabitants of the Orchades: al|though not in so ciuill wise, nor in such large mea|sure and aboundance of diet in their houses. He ad|deth moreouer, that their apparrell is after the Ger|maine cut, comelie, but not so chargeable and costlie, and how they raise their gaine by skins of beasts, as marterns, sheepe, oxen, and gotes skins, and there|vnto a kind of cloth which they weaue, and sell to the merchants of Norwaie, togither with their butter, fish, either salted or dried, and their traine oile, and ex|ercise their trade of fishing also in their vncerteine skewes, which they fetch out of Norwaie.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Their speech is Gothish, and such of them as by their dealing with forren merchants doo gather anie wealth, that they will verie often bestow vpon the furniture of their houses. Their weights & measures are after the Germaine maner, their countrie is verie healthie, and so wholesome, that of late a man was found which had maried a wife at one hundred yeares of age, and was able to go out a fishing with his bote at one hundred and fortie, and of late yéeres died of méere age, without anie other disease. Dron|kennesse is not heard of among them, and yet they meet and make good chéere verie often. Neither doo I read of anie great vse of flesh or foule there, although that some of their Ilands haue plentie of each. Nor anie mention of corne growing in these parts, and therefore in steed of bread they drie a kind of fish , which they beat in morters to powder, & bake it in their ouens, vntill it be hard and drie. Their fu|ell also is of such bones as the fish yéeldeth, that is taken on their coasts: and yet they liue as them|selues suppose in much felicitie, thinking it a great péece of their happinesse to be so farre distant from the wicked auarice, and cruell dealings of the more rich and ciuill part of the world.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Herein also they are like vnto the Hirthiens, in that at one time of the yeare, there commeth a priest vnto them out of the Orchades (vnto which iurisdic|tion they doo belong) who baptiseth all such children, as haue béene borne among them, since he last arri|ued, and hauing afterward remained there for a two daies, he taketh his tithes of them (which they prouide and paie with great scrupulositie in fish, for of other commodities paie they none) and then re|turneth home againe, not without boast of his trou|blesome voiage, except he watch his time. In these Iles also is great plentie of fine Amber to be hadAmber. (as Hector saith ) which is producted by the working of the sea vpon those coasts: but more of this elsewhere. This neuertheles is certeine, that these Ilands, with the Orchades, were neuer perfectlie vnited to the crowne of Scotland, till the mariage was made be|twéene king Iames and the ladie Marie daughter to Christierne king of Denmarke 1468 ; which Chri|stierne at the birth of their sonne Iames (afterward EEBO page image 44 king of Scotland and called Iames the fourth) re|signed all his right and title whatsoeuer either he or his ancestors either presently or hertofore had, might haue had, or herafrer may or should haue, vnto the a|foresaid péeres, as appéereth by the charter.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 From these Shetland Iles, and vntill we come southwards to the Scarre , which lieth in Buquham|nesse, I find no mention of anie Ile situat vpon that coast, neither greatlie from thence, vntill we come at the Forth, that leadeth vp to Sterling, neither thought we it safetie for vs to search so farre as Thu|le, whence the most excellent brimstone commeth, & thereto what store of Ilands lie vnder the more nor|therlie climats, whose secret situations though part|lie seene in my time, haue not yet bin perfectlie reue|led or discouered by anie, bicause of the great aboun|dance of huge Ilands of ice that mooueth to and fro vpon their shores, and sundrie perilous gulfes and indraughts of water, and for as much as their know|lege doth not concerne our purpose, wherfore casting about, we came at the last into the Firth or Forth, which some call the Scotish sea, wherein we passe by seuen or eight such as they be, of which the first called the Maie , the second Baas , and Garwie the third, doo séeme to be inhabited. From these also holding on our course toward England, we passe by another Ile, wherein Faux castell standeth, and this (so far as my skill serueth) is the last Iland of the Scotish side, in compassing whereof I am not able to discerne, whether their flats and shallowes, number of Ilands without name, confusion of situation, lacke of true description, or mine owne ignorance hath troubled me most. No meruell therefore that I haue béene so oft on ground among them. But most ioifull am I that am come home againe: & although not by the Thames mouth into my natiue citie (which taketh his name of Troie) yet into the English dominion, where good interteinement is much more franke and copious, and better harborough wherein to rest my wearie bones, and refresh at ease our wether beaten carcasses.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 The first Iland therefore which commeth to our sight, after we passed Berwike, is that which was somtime called Lindesfarne , but now Holie Iland,Lindesfarne or Holie I|land. and conteineth eight miles; a place much honored a|mong our monasticall writers, bicause diuerse moonks and heremits did spend their times therein. There was also the bishops see of Lindesfarne for a long season, which afterward was translated to Che|ster in the stréet , & finallie to Duresine , Dunelme, or Durham. It was first erected by Oswald , wherein he placed Aidanus the learned Scotish moonke, who came hither out of the Ile called Hij, whereof Beda speaking in the third chapter of his third booke, no|teth, that although the said Hij belong to the kings of Northumberland, by reason of situation & néere|nesse to the coast; yet the Picts appointed the bishops of the same, and gaue the Ile with the see it selfe to such Scotish moonks as they liked, bicause that by their preaching they first receiued the faith. But to re|turne to Lindesfarne. After Aidan departed this life, Finanus finished and builded the whole church with sawed timber of oke, after the maner of his coun|trie, which when Theodorus the archbishop of Can|turburie had dedicated, Edbert the bishop did couer ouer with lead.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Next vnto this is the Ile of Farne,Farne. and herein is a place of defense so far as I remember, and so great store of egs laid there by diuerse kinds of wildfoule in time of the yeare, that a man shall hardlie run for a wager on the plaine ground without the breach of manie, before his race be finished. About Farne also lie certeine Iles greater than Farne it selfe, but void of inhabitants; and in these also is great store of puffins,Puffins. graie as duckes, and without coloured fe|thers, sauing that they haue a white ring round a|bout their necks. There is moreouer another bird,Saint Cuth|berts foules. which the people call saint Cuthberts foules , a verie tame and gentle creature, and easie to be taken. Af|ter this we came to the Cocket Iland; so called, bi|cause it lieth ouer against the fall of Cocket water. Herein is a veine of meane seacole, which the people dig out of the shore at the low water; and in this I|land dwelled one Henrie sometime a famous here|mite , who (as his life declareth) came of the Danish race. And from thence vntill we came vnto the coast of Norffolke I saw no more Ilands.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Being therfore past S. Edmunds point , we found a litle Ile ouer against the fall of the water that commeth from Holkham , & likewise another ouer a|gainst the Claie , before we came at Waburne hope : the third also in Yarmouth riuer ouer against Brad|well , a towne in low or little England, whereof also I must néeds saie somewhat, bicause it is in maner an Iland, and as I gesse either hath béene or may be one: for the brodest place of the strict land that lea|deth to the same, is little aboue a quarter of a mile, which against the raging waues of the sea can make but small resistance. Little EnglandLittle Eng|land. or low Eng|land therefore is about eight miles in length and foure in bredth, verie well replenished with townes, as Fristan, Burgh castell, Olton, Flixton, Les|toft, Gunton, Blundston, Corton, Lownd, Ashe|bie, Hoxton, Belton, Bradwell, and Gorleston , and beside this it is verie fruitfull and indued with all commodities.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 Going forward from hence, by the Estonnesse (almost an Iland) I saw a small parcell cut from the maine in Oxford hauen , the Langerstone in Orwell mouth, & two péeces or Islets at Cattiwade bridge; and then casting about vnto the Colne, we beheld Merseie Merseie. which is a pretie Iland, well furnished with wood. It was sometime a great receptacle for the Danes when they inuaded England; howbeit at this present it hath beside two decaied blockehouses, two parish churches, of which one is called east Mer|seie, the other west Merseie, and both vnder the arch|deacon of Colchester, as parcell of his iurisdiction. Foulenesse is an Ile void of wood,Foulnesse. and yet well re|plenished with verie good grasse for neat and sheepe, whereof the inhabitants haue great plentie: there is also a parish church, and albeit that it stand somewhat distant from the shore, yet at a dead low water a man may (as they saie) ride thereto if he be skilfull of the causie; it is vnder the iurisdiction of London. And at this present master William Tabor bacheler of diuinitie and archdeacon of Essex hath it vnder his iurisdiction & regiment, by the surrender of mai|ster Iohn Walker doctor also of diuinitie, who liued at such time as I first attempted to commit this booke to the impression.
Compare 1577 edition: 1 In Maldon water are in like sort thrée Ilands inuironed all with salt streames, as saint Osithes, Northeie ,Osithe. Northeie. and another (after a mersh) that beareth no name so far as I remember. On the right hand al|so as we went toward the sea againe, we saw Ram|seie Ile , or rather a Peninsula or Biland,Ramseie. & likewise the Reie ,Reie. in which is a chappell of saint Peter. And then coasting vpon the mouth of the Bourne, we saw the Wallot Ile and his mates, whereof two lie by east Wallot, and the fourth is Foulnesse, except I be deceiued, for here my memorie faileth me on the one side, and information on the other, I meane concerning the placing of Foulenesse. But to pro|céed. After this, and being entered into the Thames mouth, I find no Iland of anie name, except you ac|compt Rochford hundred for one, whereof I haue no mind to intreat, more than of Crowland, Mersland, EEBO page image 45 Elie, and the rest, that are framed by the ouze, An|dredeseie in Trent, so called of a church there dedica|ted to saint Andrew, and Auon (two noble riuers hereafter to be described) sith I touch onelie those that are inuironed with the sea or salt water round about, as we may see in the CanwaieCanwaie. Iles , which some call marshes onelie, and liken them to an ipo|cras bag, some to a vice, scrue, or wide sléeue, bi|cause they are verie small at the east end, and large at west. The salt rilles also that crosse the same doo so separat the one of them from the other, that they re|semble the slope course of the cutting part of a scrue or gimlet, in verie perfect maner, if a man doo ima|gine himselfe to looke downe from the top of the mast vpon them. Betwéene these, moreouer and the Leigh towne lieth another litle Ile or Holme, whose name is to me vnknowne. Certes I would haue gone to land and viewed these parcels as they laie, or at the least haue sailed round about them by the whole hauen, which may easilie be doone at an high water: but for as much as a perrie of wind (scarse comparable to the makerell gale , whereof Iohn A|nele of Calis one of the best seamen that England euer bred for his skill in the narow seas was woont to talke) caught hold of our sailes, & caried vs forth the right waie toward London, I could not tarie to sée what things were hereabouts. Thus much there|fore of our Ilands, & so much may well suffice where more cannot be had.