3.1. ¶ Of the foode and diet of the Engliſhe. Cap. 1.

¶ Of the foode and diet of the Engliſhe. Cap. 1.

Compare 1587 edition: 1 THe ſcituation of our region, lying néere vnto the north, doth cauſe the heate of our ſtomaches ſomewhat to increaſe, and become of greater force, wherefore our bodies doe craue ſome|what more ample nouriſhment, then the in|habitantes of the hotter regions are accu|ſtomed wythall: whoſe dygeſtyue force is not altogither ſo vehement, becauſe theyr internall heate is not ſo ſtrong as ours, which is kept in by the coldneſſe of the ayre, that from time to tyme eſpecially in winter doth enuiron our bodies.

Compare 1587 edition: 1 2 It is no marueyle therfore that our tables are oftẽtimes more plẽtifully garniſhed thẽ thoſe of other nations, & this trade hath con|tinued with vs euen ſithence the very begin|ning, for before the Romaines founde out & knewe the waye vnto our country, our pre|deceſſours fedde largely vpon fleſhe & m [...]ke, whereof there was great abundance in thys Iſle, becauſe they applyed their chief ſtudies vnto paſturage and féeding. After this ma|ner alſo did our Welch Brytons order thẽ|ſelues in theyr dyet ſo long as they liued of themſelues, but after they became to be vni|ted & made equal with the Engliſh, they fra|med their appetites to liue after our maner, ſo that at thys day there is very litle diffe|rence betwéene vs in our dyets. In olde time the north Brytons did giue themſelues generally to great abſtinence, and in tyme of warres their ſouldiours would often feede but once or twice at the moſt in two or thrée dayes, eſpecially if they helde themſelues in ſecrete, or coulde haue no iſſue out of theyr Bogges and maryſes, thorowe the preſence of the enimie. In this penurye alſo they vſed to créepe into the water or mooriſh plots vp vnto the chinnes, and there remaine a long tyme, only to quallify the heates of their ſto|mackes by violence, which otherwyſe would haue wrought and béene readye to oppreſſe them for hunger and want of ſuſtinance. In thoſe daies likewiſe it was taken for a great offence amongſt them, to eate eyther gooſe, hare, or henne, bicauſe of a certaine ſuperſti|cious opinion which they had conceyued of thoſe thrée creatures, howbeit after that the Romaynes had once founde an entraunce in|to this Iſland, it was not long ere open ſhip|wracke EEBO page image 104 was made of this religious obſerua|tion, ſo that in proceſſe of time, ſo well the Brytons as y^e Romaines, gaue ouer to make anye ſuch difference in meates, as they had done before time.

Compare 1587 edition: 1 From thenceforth alſo vnto our dayes, & euen in this ſeaſon wherein we liue, there is no reſtraint of any meate, eyther for re|ligions ſake, or publike order, but it is law|full for euery man to féede vpon whatſoeuer he is able to purchaſe, except it be vpon thoſe dayes whereon eating of fleſhe is eſpecially forbidden, by the lawes of the realme, which order is taken only to the ende our numbers of cattell maye be the better increaſed, and that abundaunce of fiſhe which the ſea yéel|deth, more generally receyued. Beſide this there is great conſideration had in making of this law for the preſeruatiõ of the nauy, & maintenaunce of conuenient numbers of ſea faryng men, both which woulde otherwyſe greatlye decaye, if ſome meanes were not found, wherby they might be increaſed. But howſouer this caſe ſtandeth, white meates, as milk, butter & chéeſe, which were woont to be accoũted of as one of the chiefe ſtayes tho|rowout the Iſland, are now reputed as foode appertinent only to the inferiour ſort, why|leſt ſuch as are more wealthie, doe féede vp|pon the fleſhe of all kindes of cattell accuſto|med to be eaten, all ſortes of fiſhe taken vpõ our coaſtes and in our freſhe ryuers, & ſuch diuerſitie of wilde and tame foules as are eyther bredde in our Iſlande or brought ouer vnto vs from other countries of the maine.

Compare 1587 edition: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 In number of diſhes and change of meate, the nobilitie of Englande doe moſt excéede, ſith there is no daye in maner that paſſeth o|uer their heades, wherein they haue not one|ly béefe, mutton, veale, lambe, kidde, porke, conie, capon, pigge, or ſo many of theſe as the ſeaſon yeldeth: but alſo ſome portiõ of the redde or fallow déere, beſide great varietie of fiſhe and wildefowle, and thereto ſundrie o|ther delicates wherin the ſwéet hande of the Portingale is not wãting: ſo that for a man to dine with one of them, and to taſt of euery diſhe that ſtandeth before him (which fewe vſe to doe, but to féede vppon that him beſt li|keth for the time) is rather to yéelde vnto a conſpiracie with a great deale of meate for the ſpéedie ſuppreſſion of naturall health, thẽ to ſatiſfie himſelfe with a competent repaſt, to ſuſtayne his lyfe withall. But as thys large feeding is not ſéene in their geſtes, no more is it in their owne perſons, for ſith they haue dayly much reſort vnto their tables, (& many tymes vnlooked for) and thereto re|tayne great numbers of ſeruaunts, it is very requiſite for them to be ſomewhat plentifull in this behalfe. The chiefe part lykewyſe of their dayly prouiſiõ is brought in before thẽ, & placed on their tables, whereof when they haue takẽ what it pleaſeth thẽ, the reſt is re|ſerued & afterward ſent downe, to their ſer|uing men & waiters, who fed thereon in lyke ſort with conuenient moderatiõ, their reuer|ſion alſo being beſtowed vpõ the poore, which lye ready at their gates in great numbers to receyue the ſame. This is ſpokẽ of the chiefe tables whereat the nobleman, his ladie and gueſtes are accuſtomed to ſit, beſide which they haue a certayne ordinarie allowaunce dayly appointed for their halles, where the chiefe officers, and houſholde ſeruaunts, (for all are not permitted to wayte vppon theyr maiſter) & with them ſuch inferiour gueſtes do féede as are not of calling to aſſociate the noble mã himſelf: ſo that beſides thoſe afore mencioned which are called to the principall table, there are commonly fourtie or thrée ſcore perſons fed in thoſe halles to the great reliefe of ſuch ſtrãgers, as oft be partakers thereof. As for drincke it is not vſually ſet on the table in pottes or cruſes, but each one calleth for a cup of ſuch as he liſteth to haue, or as neceſſitie vrgeth him: ſo y^t whẽ he hath taſted of it he deliuereth the cuppe againe to ſome one of the ſtanders by, who making it cleane, reſtoreth it to the cubborne frõ whẽce he fetched the ſame. By this occaſion much ydle tippling is furthermore cut of, for whereas if the full pottes ſhoulde continual|lye ſtande néere the trencher, diuers woulde alwayes be dealing with them, whereas now they drincke ſeldome only to auoide the note of great drinkers, or often troubling of y^e ſeruitours. Neuertheleſſe in the noble mẽs halles, this order is not vſed, neyther in any mans houſe commonly vnder the degrée of a knight or Squire of great reuenues. The gentlemen and marchant kéepe much about one rate, and eache of them contenteth him|ſelfe with foure, or fiue or ſixe diſhes, when they haue but ſmall reſorte, or peraduenture with one or two, or thrée at the moſt, when they haue no ſtraungers to accompanie them at their owne table. And yet their ſer|uauntes haue their ordinarye dyet aſſigned, beſide ſuch as is left at their maſters bordes, and not appointed to be brought thither the ſeconde time, which is often ſéene generally in veniſon, or ſome eſpeciall diſhe, whereon the Marchaunte man himſelfe lyketh to féede whẽ it is colde, or peraduenture is bet|ter ſo then yf it were warme or hote. To be ſhort, at ſuch time as the marchauntes doe make their ordinarie or voluntarie feaſts, it EEBO page image 95 is a worlde to ſée what great prouiſion is made of all maner of delicate meates, from euery quarter of the country, wherein beſide that they are oftẽ comparable herein to the nobilitie of the lande, they will ſeldome re|garde any thing that the butcher vſually kil|leth, but reiect the ſame as not woorthie to come in place. In ſuch caſes alſo geliffes, conſerues, ſuckeites, codinacs, marmilates, marchepaine, ſugred bread, gingerbreade, florentines, wildfowle, veniſon of all ſortes, & outlandiſh confectiõs do generally beare y^e ſway, with other infinite deuiſes of our owne not poſſible for me to remember. But amõg all theſe, the kinde of meate which is obtay|ned with moſt difficultie is commonly taken for the moſt delicate, & thervpon eache gueſt will ſooneſt deſire to féede. And as all eſtates doe excéede herein, (I meane for number of coſtly diſhes) ſo theſe forget not to vſe y^e like exceſſe in wine, inſomuch as there is no kind to be had (neither any where more ſtore of al ſortes then in Englãd) wherof at ſuch great méetinges there is not ſome portion proui|ded. Furthermore when theſe haue had their courſe which nature yeldeth, ſundry ſortes of artificial ſtuffe, imuſt in like maner ſuccéede in their turnes, beſide Ale & béere which ne|uertheleſſe beare the greateſt brunt in drinc|king, and are of ſo many ſortes & ages as it pleaſeth the Bruer to make them. The bere that is vſed at noble mens tables is commõ|lye of a yeare olde, (or peraduenture of twoo yeres tunning or more, but this is not ge|nerall) it is alſo brued in Marche & therefore called Marche bere, but for the houſholde it is vſually not vnder a monethes age, eache one coueting to haue y^e ſame ſtale as he may ſo that it be not ſoure, and his breade new as is poſſible, ſo that it be not hote. The arti|ficer, and huſbandman, make greateſt ac|compt of ſuch meate, as they maye ſooneſt come by and haue it quicklyeſt readie: their foode alſo conſiſteth principally in Béefe and ſuch meate as the Butcher ſelleth, that is to ſay Mutton, Veale, Lamb, Porke. &c. wher|of the Artificer findeth great ſtore in the markets adioyning, beſide Souſe, Brawne, Bacon, Fruite, Pyes of fruite, Foules of ſundrie ſortes, Chéeſe, Butter, Egges. &c. as the other wãteth it not at home, by his owne prouiſion, which is at the beſt hande, & com|monly leaſt charge. In feſting alſo this lat|ter ſort doe excéede after their maner: eſpe|cially at Brydales, purifications of women, and ſuch like odde méetinges, where it is in|credible to tell what meate is conſumed and ſpent, eache one bringing ſuch a diſhe, or ſo many, as hys wyfe and he doe conſult vpon, but alwayes with this conſideration that the léefer friende, ſhall haue the beſt intertaine|ment. This alſo is commonly ſéene at theſe bankets, that the goodman of the houſe is not charged with any thing ſauing bread, drinke, houſe rowme and fire. But the artificers in cities and good townes doe deale farre other|wyſe, for albeit that ſome of them doe ſuffer their iawes to go oft before their clawes, & diuers of thẽ by making good cheare do hin|der themſelues and other men, yet the wiſer ſort can handle the matter well ynough in theſe Iunkettinges, and therefore their fru|galitie deſerueth commendation. To con|clude both the arficer and the huſbandman, are ſufficiently liberall, and very friendly at their tables, and when they méete, they are ſo merie without malice, and plaine without inwarde craft & ſubtilty that it woulde doe a man good to be in companie among them. Herein onely are the inferiour ſort to be bla|med, that being thus aſſembled their talke is now and then ſuch as ſauoureth of ſcurrilitie and ribaldrye a thing naturallye incident to carters, & clownes, who thincke themſelues not to be merie and welcome, yf their fooliſh vaines in this behalfe be neuer ſo little re|ſtrayned. This is moreouer to be added in theſe aſſembles, that if they happen to ſtum|ble vpon a péece of veniſon and a cup of wine or very ſtrong béere or ale, which latter they commonly prouide agaynſt their appoynted dayes, they thincke their cheare ſo great, and thẽſelues to haue fared ſo well,I haue dined ſo well as my Lorde Mayor. as the Lorde Mayor of London, with whome when their bellies be full they will often make compa|riſon. I might here talke ſomewhat of the great ſilence that is vſed at the tables of the honorable & wyſer ſort, generally ouer all y^e realme, likewyſe of the moderate eating and drincking that is dayly ſéene, and finally of the regard that eache one hath to kéepe him|ſelfe from the note of ſurffetting and drunc|kenneſſe, (for which cauſe ſalt meate except béefe, bacon, and porke are not any white e|ſtéemed, and yet theſe three may not be much powdered) but as in rehearſall thereof I ſhould commende the noble man, marchant, and frugall artificer, ſo I coulde not cleare the meaner ſort of huſbandmen, and country inhabitaunts of very much babbling (except it be here and there ſome odde man) & nowe & then ſurfeting and drunkenneſſe, which they rather fall into for want of héede taking, thẽ wilfully following or delighting in thoſe er|rours of ſet minde and purpoſe. The breade thorowout the lande is made of ſuch graine as the ſoyle yeldeth, neuertheleſſe the genti|litie commõly prouide themſelues ſufficient|ly EEBO page image 105 of wheate for their owne tables, whyleſt their houſhold and poore neighbours are in|forced to content themſelues with Rye, or Barley, yea & in tyme of dearth with breade made eyther of beanes, peaſon, or Otes, or of al togither, of which ſcourge the pooreſt do ſooneſt taſt, ſith they are leaſt able to prouide themſelues of better. I will not ſay that this extremitie is oft ſo well to be ſéen in tyme of plentie, as of dearth but if I ſhould I could eaſily bring my trial: for albeit that there be much more grounde eared nowe almoſt in e|uerye place, then hath béene of late yeares, yet ſuch a price of corne continueth in eache towne and markete wythout any iuſt cauſe, that the artificer and poore laboring man, is not able to reach vnto it, but is driuen to cõ|tent hymſelfe with horſecorne, I meane, beanes, peaſon, otes, tares, and lintelles: and therefore it is a true prouerbe, and neuer ſo well verified as now,A famine at hand is firſt ſéene in y^e horſe maunger, when the poore doe fall to horſecorne that hunger ſetteth his firſt foote into the horſe manger. If the world laſt a while after this rate, wheate and rye will be no graine for poore men to féede on, & ſome catterpillers there are that can ſaye ſo much already. Of breade made of wheat we haue ſundry ſortes, daily brought to the ta|ble, wherof the firſt and moſt excellent is the manchet, which we commonlye call white breade, in latin primarius panis, Primarius panis. whereof Bu|deus alſo ſpeaketh, in his firſt booke de aſſe. The ſecond is the cheate, or wheaton bread, ſo named becauſe the colour thereof reſem|bleth the graie wheat, and out of this is the courſeſt of the brennes (vſually called gurge|ons or pollarde) taken. The raueled is a kinde of chete breade alſo, but it reteyneth more of the groſſe, and leſſe of the pure ſub|ſtance of the wheate: and this beyng more ſleightly wrought vp, is vſed in the houſes of the nobilitie, and gentry onely, whereas the other is baked in cities and good townes of an appointed ſize (according to ſuch price as the corne doth beare) by a ſtatute prouided in that behalfe.The ſize of breade is very ill kept or not at all loo|ked vnto in the coũ|trey townes & markets. Panis Ci|barius. The next ſort is named browne breade of the colour, of which we haue twoo ſortes, one baked vp as it commeth from the mille, ſo that neyther the brennes nor the floure, are any whit diminiſhed, thys Celſus called Autopirus panis. lib. 2. and putteth it in the ſeconde place of nouriſhment. The o|ther hath little or no floure left therein at al, howbeit he calleth it panem Cibarium, and it is not onely the woorſt and weakeſt of all the other ſortes, but alſo appointed in olde tyme for ſeruants, and the inferiour kinde of peo|ple. Hereunto likewiſe becauſe it is dry and brickle in the working (for it will hardely be made vp handſomely into loues) ſome adde a portion of rye meale, wherby the rough dry|neſſe or drie roughneſſe thereof is ſomewhat quallified, and then it is named miſſelen, that is, bread made of mingled corne, albeit that dyuers doe mingle wheate and rye of pur|poſe at the mille, & ſell the ſame at the mar|kettes vnder the aforeſayde name.

Compare 1587 edition: 1 In champeigne countryes much rye and barly breade it eaten,Sspan [...] but eſpeciallye where wheate is ſcant and geſon. As for the diffe|rence that is betwéene the ſummer & winter wheate, moſt huſbandmen knowe it not, ſith they are neyther acquainted with ſummer wheat, nor winter barley: yet here and there I finde of both ſortes, but in ſo ſmall quanti|ties, as that I dare not pronounce them to be any thing common among vs.

Compare 1587 edition: 1 Our drinke whoſe force and continuance is partly touched already, is made of barley,Dr [...]n [...] water, and hoppes, ſodden and mingled to|gither, by the induſtry of our bruers, in a certaine exact proportion. But before our barley doe come vnto their handes, it ſuſtai|neth great alteration, and is conuerted into mault, y^e making wherof,M [...] I wil her ſet down in ſuch order, as my ſkill therein may extend vnto, (for I am ſcarſe a good maultſter) chief|ly for that forreine writers haue attẽpted to deſcribe the ſame, & the making of our béere, wherein they haue ſhot ſo farre wyde as the quantity of ground was betwéene thẽſelues and their marke. In the meane tyme beare with me gentle reader, (I beſéech thée) that leade thee from the deſcription of the plenty|full dyet of our countrey, vnto the fonde re|porte of a ſeruyle trade, or rather from a ta|ble delicately furniſhed, into a muſtye mault houſe, but ſuch is now thy hap, wherefore I praye thée be contented.

Compare 1587 edition: 1 2 3 4 Our Mault is made of the beſt Barley,Ma [...] of [...] which is ſtéeped in a cyſterne, in greater or leſſe quantitye, by the ſpace of thrée dayes, and thrée nyghtes, vntyll it be thorowelye ſoked. This beyng done the water is dray|ned from it by lyttle and lyttle, tyll it bée quite gone. Afterwarde they take it out, and laying it vpon the cleane floure on a rounde heape, it reſteth ſo vntill it be ready to ſhoote at the roote ende, which maltſters call com|ming. When it beginneth therefore to ſhoote in thys maner, they ſaye it is come, and then foorthwith they ſpreade it abroade, firſt thick and afterwarde thinner and thinner vppon the ſayde flower (as it commeth) and there it lyeth (with turning euery daye foure or fiue times) by the ſpace of one and twenty daies at the leaſt, the workeman not ſuffring it in any wiſe to take any heate, whereby the bud ende ſhoulde ſpire, that bringeth foorth the EEBO page image 96 blade, and by which out [...]ght [...]he maulte woulde be ſpoyl [...]d, and to its [...]o ſmall como|ditie. When it hath gone or [...] turned ſo long vpon the floure, they carye it to a hyll couered wyth heire cloth, where they gyue it gentle heates (after they haue ſprede it there very thinne abroad) till it be drye, and in the meane while they turne it o [...]ten, that it may be vniformly dried. For the more it be dryed the better the mault is and the longer it will continue, whereas if it be not dryed downe (as they call it) but ſlackely handled, it wyll bréed a kind of worme, called a wiuel, which groweth in the flowre of the corne, and in proceſſe of time, will ſo eate out it ſelfe, that nothing ſhal remaine of the graine but euen the rinde or huſke. The beſt mault is tryed by the hardneſſe & colour, for if it will write lyke a péece of chalke, after you haue bytten a kyrnell in ſunder in the middeſt, then you may aſſure your ſelf y^t it is dryed downe. In ſome places it is dryed with woode alone, or ſtrawe alone, in other with woode and ſtraw togither, but of all the ſtrawe dryed is the moſt excellent. For the woode dryed mault when it is brued, beſide that if is higher of collour, it doth hurt and annoye the heade of him that is not vſed thereto becauſe of the ſmoke. Such alſo as vſe both indifferẽtly do cleane and drye theyr woode, to remooue all moyſture that ſhoulde procure the ſmoke, & thys mault is in the ſeconde place, and with the ſame likewiſe, that which is made wyth dryed fyrze, brome, &c. whereas if they alſo bée occupyed gréene, they are in manner ſo preiudiciall to the corne, as the moiſt woode. And thus much of our Maultes in bruyng whereof they grynde the ſame ſomewhat groſelye, [...]ruing Béere. and in ſéethyng well the liquour that ſhall bée put vnto it, they adde to euerye nine quarters of mault one of headecorne, which cõſiſteth of ſundry graine, as wheate, Otes, Peaſon. &c. They ſéeth theyr woort al|ſo twiſe, that is once before they maſhe, or mixe it with the mault, and once after after, adding furthermore vnto this later ſeething, a certeine number of engliſhe hops, (for the outlandiſh are founde nowe to be the woorſt) according to whoſe quantitie, the continu|aunce of the drinke is determined. For it fée|deth vpon the hoppe, and laſteth ſo long as the force of the ſame continueth, which being extinguiſhed the drinke dyeth, and becõmeth of no value. In this trade alſo our bruers obſerue very diligently the nature of the wa|ter which they daily occupye, for all waters are not of lyke goodneſſe in thys buſyneſſe, wherefore the diligent workeman doth re|déeme the iniquity of that element, by chan|ging of his proportions, which trouble in ale (ſometime our onelye, but nowe taken with many only for olde & ſ [...]ct [...]ens drinke) is neuer ſeene nor harde of. Howbeit as the béere well brued and ſtale, is c [...]ere and well coloured as mu [...]a [...]ell or m [...]l [...]eſey, ſo our ale which is not at all or verye little ſodden, and without hoppes, is more thicke, fulſome and of no ſuch continuance, which are thrée o [...]able thynges, to bée conſidered in that liquor, but what for that. Certes I knewe ſome ale knightes ſo much addicted therevn|to, that they will not ceaſe from morow vn|tyll euen, to [...]iſt [...]e the ſame, clenſing houſe after houſe, till they deale themſelues. Such ſleights alſo haue the alewines for the vtter|raunce of this drinke, that they wyll mixe it with roſen and ſalt, but if you heate a knyfe redde hotte, and quench it in the ale, ſo néere the bottome of the pot as you can put it, you ſhal ſée the roſe hanging on the knife. As for the force of ſalt, it is well knowne by the ef|fecte, for the more the drinker tipleth y^e more he may, and ſo doth hée cary a dry drunken ſoule to bed with him, except his lucke be the better, but to my purpoſe. In ſome places of england, there is a kind of drink, made of ap|ples, which they call cidar or pomage,Cidar. Perry. but y^t of peares is named pirry. Certs theſe 2. are very common in Kent, Worceſter, & other ſtéedes, where theſe kindes of fruites doe abounde, howbeit they are not theyr onelye dryncke, at all tymes, but referred vnto the delicate ſortes of drinke, as Metheglin is in Wales,Methe|glin. wherof the welchmen make no leſſe accompt, then the Gréekes did of theyr Ambroſia, or Nectar, which for the pleaſant|neſſe thereof, was ſuppoſed to bée ſuch as the goddeſſe themſelues did vſe. There is a kind of ſwiſh ſwaſh made alſo in Eſſex, and dy|uers other places, wyth Hony and water, which the countrey wines putting ſome pep|per & a little other ſpice among, call meade,Mede. verye good in myne opinion for ſuch as loue to bée loſſe bodied, otherwiſe it differeth ſo much from the true Metheglin, as chalke doth from chéeſe. Truely it is nothing elſe but the waſhing of the combes, whẽ the hony is wrong out, and one of the beſt things that I knowe belonging thereto is, y^t they ſpend but little labour and leſſe coſt in making of the ſame, and therefore no great loſſe if it were neuer occupyed.

Compare 1587 edition: 1 2 3 4 Hetherto of the dyet of my Countrey|menne, and ſome what more at large peraduenture then manye menne will like of, wherefore I thinke good nowe to fyniſhe thys chapter, and ſo will I when I haue ad|ded a few other thinges incident vnto that EEBO page image 106 which goeth before, wherevy the whole pro|ceſſe of the ſame ſhall fully be deliuered, and my promiſe to my friend in this behalfe per|formed. Heretofore there hath béene much more tyme ſpent in eating and drincking thẽ commonly is in theſe dayes,Leſſe time ſpent in eating thẽ heretofore. for whereas of olde we had breakfaſtes in the forenoone, be|uerages, or nuritions after dinner, & therto rere ſuppers generally when it was tyme to go to reſt (a toy brought in by hard Canutus) nowe theſe odde repaſtes thancked be God are verye well left, and eache one in maner (except here in there ſome young hungry ſtomacke that cannot faſt till dinner tyme,) contenteth himſelfe with dinner and ſupper onely. The Normans miſlyking the gur|mandize of Canutus, ordayned after their ar|riualle, that no table ſhoulde be couered a|boue once in the day, which Huntingdon im|puteth to their auarice: but in the ende either wexing weary of their owne frugalitie, or ſuffering the cockle of olde cuſtome to ouer|growe the good corne of their newe conſtitu|tion, they fell to ſuch libertie, that in often féeding they ſurmounted Canutus ſurnamed the hardy. Canutus a gloutton but the Normans at the laſt excéeded him in that vice. For wheras he couered his table, but thrée or foure times in the day, they ſpred their clothes fiue or ſixe tymes, and in ſuch wiſe as I before rehearſed. They brought in alſo the cuſtome of long and ſtately ſitting at meate, which is not yet left, although it be a great expence of tyme, and woorthye reprehenſion. For the nobilitie gentlemen & marchant men, eſpecially at great méetings doe ſit cõmonly till two or thrée of the clocke at afternoone, ſo that with many it is an hard matter,Long fit|ting repre|hended. to ryſe from the table to go to eue|ning prayer, & returne from thence to come tyme ynough to ſupper. For my part I am perſwaded that the purpoſe of the Normans at the firſt was to reduce the auncient Ro|maine order in féeding once in the day, and towarde the euening as I haue reade & no|ted. In déede the Romaines had ſuch a cu|ſtome, and lykewyſe the Gretians as maye appeare by the wordes of Socrates, who ſayd vnto y^e Atheniens Oriente ſole conſilium, oc|cidente conuiuium eſt cogitandum. Plato called the Siciliens monſters in that they v|ſed to eate twiſe in the day. Among the Per|ſians onelye the king dined when the ſonne was at the higheſt, and ſhadowe of the ſtile at the ſhorteſt: the reaſt (as it is reported) went alwayes to meate as their ſtomackes craued it. Howbeit at the laſt they fell gene|rally to allow of ſuppers toward the ſetting of the ſunne, bycauſe they woulde haue all their family to go to meate togither, & wher|vnto they woulde appoynt their gueſtes to come at a certayne length of the ſhadow, to be perceyued in their dialles. Their ſlaues in lyke ſort were glad, when it grewed to the tenth foote for then were they ſure ſoone af|ter to go to meate. In the ſcripture we read of many ſuppers and fewe dinners, only for that dining was not greatly vſed in Chriſts tyme, but taken as a thing lately ſprong vp, when pampering of the belly began to take holde, occaſioned by ydleneſſe and great a|bundaunce of riches. It is pretie to note in Iuuenall, how he taunteth Marius for that he gaue himſelf to drincking before the T [...] at t [...] the [...] at [...]. ninth houre of the day, for thincking thrée houres to be to litle for the filling of his belly, he be|ganne commonly at eyght, which was an houre to ſoone. Afterwards ſixe houres one|ly were appointed to worke and conſult in, and the other ſixe of the day to féede & drincke in, as the Verſe ſayeth.

Sex horae tanto rebus tribuantur agendus

viuere poſt illas littera zetha monet.

But how Martial deuided his day, and with him the whole trowpe of the learned and wi|ſer ſort, theſe verſes following doe more eui|dently declare.

Prima ſalutantes, atque altera continet horas,L [...]. 4. [...] 8

Exercet raucos tertia cauſidicos.

In quintam varios extendit Roma labores,

Sexta quies laſsis, Septima finis erit.

Sufficit in nonam nitidis octaua paleſtris,

Imperat extructos frangere nona thoros.

Hora libellorum decima eſt Eupheme meorũ,

Temperat Ambroſias, cum tua cura dapes.

Et bonus ethereo laxatur Nectare Caeſar,

Ingentique tenet pocula parca manu.

Tunc admitte iocos: greſſu timet ire licenti,

Ad matutinum noſtra Thaleia Iouem.

Thus we ſée how the auncient maner of the gentils was to féede but once in the day and that towarde night, till glotonie grewe on, and altered that good cuſtome. With vs the nobilitie, gentrie and ſtudents, doe ordinari|ly go to dinner at a leauen before noone, and to ſupper at fiue, or betwéene fiue and ſixe at afternoone. The marchaunts dine and ſuppe ſeldome before 12. at noone, & ſixe at night e|ſpecially in London. The huſbandmen dine alſo at high noone as they call it, & ſup at ſea|uen or eyght: but out of the terme in our V|niuerſities the ſchoolers dine at tenne. As for the pooreſt ſort they generally dine and ſup when they, may ſo that to talke of their order of repaſt, it were but néedeleſſe matter.

3.2. Of our apparell and attire. Cap. 2.

Of our apparell and attire. Cap. 2.

Compare 1587 edition: 1 2 AN Engliſhman indeuouring ſometime to write of our attire, made ſundry plat|formes for his purpoſe, ſuppoſing by ſome of EEBO page image 97 them to finde out one ſtedfaſt ground where|on to builde the ſumme of his diſcourſe. But in the ende (like an oratour, long without ex|erciſe) when he ſaw what a difficult péece of worke he had taken in hande, he gaue ſet his traueile, and onelye drue the picture of a naked man, vnto whome he gaue a paire of ſheares in the one hande, and a péece of cloth in the other, in the ende he ſhould ſhape his apparrell after ſuch faſhion as himſelfe liked, ſith he could [...]de no kind of garment that coulde pleaſe him [...]ny whyle togyther, and this he called an Englishemen. Certes thys writer (otherwiſe being a leawde and vngracious prieſt) ſhewed himſelfe herein not to be voyde of iudgement, [...]rewe. [...]rd. ſith the phan|taſticall follye of our nation is ſuch, that no forme of apparrell liketh vs longer then the firſt garment is in the wearing, if it conti|nue ſo long and be not layde aſide, to receyue ſome other trinket newly deuiſed by the ficle headded Taylours, who couet to haue ſeue|rall trickes in cutting, thereby to draw fond cuſtomers to more expence of money. For my part I can tell better howe to inueigh a|gainſt this enormitie, then deſcribe our at|tire: ſithens ſuch is our mutabilitie, that to day there is none to the Spaniſhe guiſe, to morowe the French toyes are moſt fine and delectable, ere long no ſuch apparell as that which is after the high Almaine faſhion, by and by the Turkiſh maner is generally beſt liked of, otherwiſe the Moriſco gownes and the Barbarian ſléeues make ſuch a comelye Veſture, that except it were a dog in a dub|let, you ſhall not ſée anye ſo diſguiſed, as are my coũtry men of england. And as theſe faſhiõs are diuers, ſo likewiſe it is a worlde to ſe the coſtlineſſe and the curioſitie: the ex|ceſſe and the vanitie: the pompe and the bra|uery: the chaunge and the variety: and final|ly the ficleneſſe and the folly that is in all de|grées: inſomuch that nothing is more con|ſtant in england then inconſtancie of attire. Neither cã we be more iuſtly burdened with any reproche, then inordinate behauiour in apparrell, for which moſt nations deride vs, as alſo for that we men doe ſéeme to beſtowe moſt coſt vpon our arſes & much more then vpon all the reſt of our bodies, as women do likewiſe vpon their heads and ſhoulders. In women alſo it is moſt to be lamented, that they doe now farre excéede the lightneſſe of our men (who neuertheleſſe are tranſformed from the cap euen to the very ſhoe) and ſuch ſtaring attire as in time paſt was ſuppoſed méete for none but light houſewiues onely, is now become an habit for chaſt & ſober ma|trones. What ſhould I ſay of their dublets wyth p [...]nd [...]nt c [...]piſes on the breaſt [...] tags and c [...], and [...]ée [...] of ſ [...]dy [...], theyr g [...]g [...]ſoons, couloured [...] their [...], and ſuch lyke, whereby their bodies [...] ther deform [...] then co [...] I haue [...] with ſome of them in London ſo but diſgui|ſed, that it hath paſſed my ſkill to diſcerne whyther they were men or women. Thus it is now come to paſſe, that womẽ are become men, and men turned into monſters: & thoſe g [...] giftes which almightie God hath giuen vnto vs to reléeue our neceſſitie withall, not otherwyſe beſtowed them in all exce [...]e as if we wiſt not otherwiſe howe to conſume and waſt them. I pray God that in this behalfe our ſinne be not lyke vnto that of Sodome and Gomorha, whoſe errors were pride,Ezech. 16. ex|ceſſe of diet, & abuſe of Gods benefits abun|dantly beſtowed vpon them, beſide want of charitie toward the poore, and certaine other pointes which y^e Prophet ſhutteth vp in ſci|lence. Certes the commõwealth can not be ſayde to floriſhe where theſe abuſes reigne, but is rather oppreſſed by vnreaſonable ex|actions made vpõ farmers & tenants, wher|with to maintayne the ſame. Neither was it euer meryer with Englande then when an Engliſhmã was knowne by [...]owne cloth, and contented himſelfe with his fine carſie hoſen, and a meane ſlop: his coate, gowne & cloake of browne blew or putre, with ſome pretie furniture of veluet or furre, & a doub|blet of ſadde Tawny, or blacke Veluet, or other comelye Sylke, without ſuch gawriſh coulours as are worne in theſe dayes, & ne|uer brought in but by the conſent of y^e french, who thincke thẽſelues the gaieſt men, when they haue moſt diuerſitie, & chaunge of cou|lours about them. I might here name a ſort of hewes deuiſed for the nones, wherewith to pleaſe fantaſticall heades, as gooſeturde gréene, the Deuell in the heade, (I ſhoulde ſay the hedge) and ſuch like, but I paſſe them ouer thincking it ſufficient to haue ſayd thus much of apparell generally, when nothing can particularly be ſpoken of any conſtancie thereof.

5.1. Of cattell kept for profit. Chap. 1.

Of cattell kept for profit. Chap. 1.

Compare 1577 edition: 1 _THere is no kind of tame cat|tell vsually to be séene in these parts of the world, wherof we haue not some, and that great store in England; as horsses, oxen, shéepe, goats, swine, and far surmounting the like in other countries, as may be prooued with ease. For where are oxen commonlie more large of bone, horsses more decent and pleasant in pase, kine more commodious for the pale, shéepe more profitable for wooll, swine more wholesome of flesh, and goates more gainefull to their kéepers, than here with vs in England? But to speke of them peculiarlie, I suppose that our kine are so abundant in yéeld of milke, wherof we make our butter & chéese, as the like anie where else, and so apt for the plough in diuerse places as either our horsses or oxen. And albeit they now and then twin, yet herein they séeme to come short of that commoditle which is looked for EEBO page image 220 in other countries, to wit, in that they bring foorth most commonlie but one calfe at once. The gaines also gotten by a cow (all charges borne) hath beene valued at twentie shillings yearelie: but now as land is inhanced, this proportion of gaine is much a|bated, and likelie to decaie more and more, if ground arise to be yet déerer, which God forbid, if it be his will and pleasure. I heard of late of a cow in War|wikshire, belonging to Thomas Bruer of Studleie, which in six yéeres had sixtéene calfes, that is, foure at once in three caluings and twise twins, which vnto manie may séeme a thing incredible.Oxen. In like maner our oxen are such as the like are not to be found in a|nie countrie of Europe, both for greatnesse of bodie and swéetnesse of flesh: or else would not the Ro|mane writers haue preferred them before those of Liguria. In most places our grasiers are now growen to be so cunning, that if they doo but sée an ox or bullocke, and come to the féeling of him, they will giue a ghesse at his weight, and how manie score or stone of flesh and tallow he beareth, how the butcher may liue by the sale, and what he may haue for the skin and tallow; which is a point of skill not common|lie practised heretofore. Some such grasiers also are reported to ride with veluet coats, and chaines of gold about them: and in their absence their wiues will not let to supplie those turnes with no lesse skill than their husbands: which is an hard worke for the poore butcher, sith he through this means can seldome be rich or wealthie by his trade. In like sort the flesh of our oxen and kine is sold both by hand and by weight as the buier will: but in yoong ware rather by weight, especiallie for the stéere and heighfer, sith the finer béefe is the lightest, wheras the flesh of buls and old kine, &: is of sadder substance and therefore much heauier as it lieth in the scale. Their hornes al|so are knowne to be more faire and large in Eng|land than in anie other places, except those which are to be séene among the Paeones, which quantitie albeit that it be giuen to our bréed generallie by nature, yet it is now and then helped also by art.Athenaeus lib. 10. cap. 8. For when they be verie yoong, manie grasiers will oftentimes an|noint their budding hornes, or tender tips with ho|nie, which mollifieth the naturall hardnesse of that substance, and thereby maketh them to grow vnto a notable greatnesse. Certes, it is not strange in En|gland, to sée oxen whose hornes haue the length of a yard or thrée foot betweene the tips, and they them|selues thereto so tall, as the heigth of a man of meane and indifferent stature is scarse equall vnto them. Neuerthelesse it is much to be lamented that our ge|nerall bréed of catell is not better looked vnto: for the greatest occupiers weane least store, bicause they can buie them (as they saie) far better cheape than to raise and bring them vp. In my time a cow hath risen from foure nobles to foure marks by this means, which notwithstanding were no great price if they did yearelie bring foorth more than one calfe a péece, as I heare they doo in other countries.

Compare 1577 edition: 1 Our horsses moreouer are high,Horsses. and although not commonlie of such huge greatnesse as in other pla|ces of the maine: yet if you respect the easinesse of their pase, it is hard to saie where their like are to be had. Our land dooth yéeld no asses, and therefore we want the generation also of mules and somers; and therefore the most part of our cariage is made by these, which remaining stoned, are either reserued for the cart, or appointed to beare such burdens as are conuenient for them. Our cart or plough horsses (for we vse them indifferentlie) are commonlie so strong that fiue or six of them (at the most) will draw thrée thousand weight of the greatest tale with ease for a long iourneie, although it be not a load of common vsage, which consisteth onelie of two thousand, or fif|tie foot of timber, fortie bushels of white salt, or six and thirtie of baie, or fiue quarters of wheat, experi|ence dailie teacheth, and I haue elsewhere remem|bred. Such as are kept also for burden, will carie foure hundred weight commonlie, without anie hurt or hinderance. This furthermore is to be noted, that our princes and the nobilitie haue their ca|riage commonlie made by carts, wherby it commeth to passe, that when the quéenes maiestie dooth re|mooue from anie one place to another, there are vsu|allie 400 carewares, which amount to the summe of 2400 horsses, appointed out of the countries adioi|ning, whereby hir cariage is conueied safelie vnto the appointed place. Hereby also the ancient vse of somers and sumpter horsses is in maner vtterlie relinquished, which causeth the traines of our princes in their progresses to shew far lesse than those of the kings of other nations.

Compare 1577 edition: 1 Such as serue for the saddle are commonlie gel|ded,Geldings. and now growne to be verie déere among vs, e|speciallie if they be well coloured, iustlie limmed, and haue thereto an easie ambling pase. For our countriemen, séeking their ease in euerie corner where it is to be had, delight verie much in these qua|lities, but chieflie in their excellent pases, which be|sides that it is in maner peculiar vnto horsses of our soile, and not hurtfull to the rider or owner sitting on their backes: it is moreouer verie pleasant and delectable in his eares, in that the noise of their well proportioned pase dooth yéeld comfortable sound as he trauelleth by the waie. Yet is there no greater deceipt vsed anie where than among our horssekee|pers, horssecorsers, and hostelers: for such is the sub|till knauerie of a great sort of them (without excepti|on of anie of them be it spoken which deale for pri|uat gaine) that an honest meaning man shall haue verie good lucke among them, if he be not deceiued by some false tricke or other. There are certeine no|table markets, wherein great plentie of horsses and colts is bought and sold, and wherevnto such as haue néed resort yearelie to buie and make their necessa|rie prouision of them, as Rippon, Newport pond, Wolfpit, Harborow, and diuerse other. But as most drouers are verie diligent to bring great store of these vnto those places; so manie of them are too too lewd in abusing such as buie them. For they haue a custome to make them looke faire to the eie, when they come within two daies iourneie of the market, to driue them till they sweat, & for the space of eight or twelue houres, which being doone they turne them all ouer the backs into some water, where they stand for a season, and then go forward with them to the place appointed, where they make sale of their infec|ted ware, and such as by this meanes doo fall into manie diseases and maladies. Of such outlandish horsses as are dailie brought ouer vnto vs I speake not, as the genet of Spaine, the courser of Naples, the hobbie of Ireland, the Flemish roile, and Scotish nag, bicause that further spéech of them commeth not within the compasse of this treatise, and for whose breed and maintenance (especiallie of the greatest sort) king Henrie the eight erected a noble studderie and for a time had verie good successe with them, till the officers waxing wearie, procured a mixed brood of bastard races, whereby his good purpose came to little effect. Sir Nicholas Arnold of late hath bred the best horsses in England, and written of the ma|ner of their production: would to God his compasse of ground were like to that of Pella in Syria, wher|in the king of that nation had vsuallie a studderie of 30000 mares and 300 stallions, as Strabo dooth re|member Lib. 16. But to leaue this, let vs sée what may be said of sheepe.

Compare 1577 edition: 1 2 Our shéepe are verie excellent,Shéepe. sith for sweetnesse EEBO page image 221 of flesh they passe all other. And so much are our woolles to be preferred before those of Milesia and o|ther places, that if Iason had knowne the value of them that are bred, and to be had in Britaine, he would neuer haue gone to Colchis, to looke for anie there. For as Dionysius Alexandrinus saith in his De situ orbis, it may by spinning be made comparable to the spiders web. What fooles then are our countri|men, in that they séeke to bereue themselues of this commoditie, by practising dailie how to transfer the same to other nations, in carieng ouer their rams & ewes to breed & increase among them? The first ex|ample hereof was giuen vnder Edward the fourth, who not vnderstanding the botome of the sute of sun|drie traitorous merchants, that sought a present gaine with the perpetuall hinderance of their coun|trie, licenced them to carie ouer certeine numbers of them into Spaine, who hauing licence but for a few shipped veris manie: a thing commonlie practised in other commodities also, whereby the prince and hir land are not seldome times defrauded. But such is our nature, and so blind are we in déed, that we sée no inconuenience before we féele it: and for a present gaine we regard not what damage may insue to our posteritie. Hereto some other man would ad also the desire that we haue to benefit other countries, and to impech our owne. And it is so sure as God liueth, that euerie trifle which commeth from beyond the sea, though it be not woorth thrée pence, is more estée|med than a continuall commoditie at home with vs, which far excéedeth that value. In time past the vse of this commoditie consisted (for the most part) in cloth and woolsteds: but now by meanes of strangers suc|coured here from domesticall persecution, the same hath béene imploied vnto sundrie other vses, as moc|kados, baies, vellures, grograines, &c: whereby the makers haue reaped no small commoditie. It is furthermore to be noted, for the low countries of Belgie know it, and dailie experience (notwithstan|ding the sharpenesse of our lawes to the contrarie) dooth yet confirme it: that although our rams & wea|thers doo go thither from vs neuer so well headed ac|cording to their kind:Shéepe with|out hornes. yet after they haue remained there a while, they cast there their heads, and from thencefoorth they remaine polled without any hornes at all. Certes this kind of cattell is more cherished in England, than standeth well with the commoditie of the commons, or prosperitie of diuerse townes, whereof some are wholie conuerted to their féeding: yet such a profitable sweetnesse is their fléece, such ne|cessitie in their flesh, and so great a benefit in the ma|nuring of barren soile with their doong and pisse, that their superfluous numbers are the better borne with|all. And there is neuer an husbandman (for now I speake not of our great shéepemasters of whom some one man hath 20000) but hath more or lesse of this cattell séeding on his fallowes and short grounds, which yéeld the siner fléece, as Virgil (following Var|ro) well espied Georg. 3. where he saith:

Si tibi lanicium curae, primùm aspera sylua,

Lappaequae tribulique absint, fuge pabula laeta.

Compare 1577 edition: 1 Neuerthelesse the sheepe of our countrie are often troubled with the rot (as are our swine with the mea|sels though neuer so generallie) and manie men are now and then great losers by the same: but after the calamitie is ouer, if they can recouer and kéepe their new stocks sound for seauen yeares togither, the for|mer losse will easilie be recompensed with double commoditie. Cardan writeth that our waters are hurtfull to our shéepe, howbeit this is but his coniec|ture: for we know that our shéepe are infected by go|ing to the water, and take the same as a sure and cer|teine token that a rot hath gotten hold of them, their liuers and lights being alredie distempered through excessiue heat, which inforceth them the rather to séeke vnto the water. Certes there is no parcell of the maine, wherin a man shall generallie find more fine and wholesome water than in England; and therfore it is impossible that our shéepe should decaie by ta|sting of the same. Wherfore the hinderance by rot is rather to be ascribed to the vnseasonablenes & moi|sture of the weather in summer, also their licking in of mildewes, gossamire, rowtie fogs, & ranke grasse, full of superfluous iuice: but speciallie (I saie) to ouer moist wether, whereby the continuall raine pearsing into their hollow felles, soketh foorthwith into their flesh, which bringeth them to their baines. Being also infected their first shew of sickenesse is their desire to drinke, so that our waters are not vnto them Causa aegritudinis, but Signum morbi, what so euer Cardan doo mainteine to the contrarie. There are (& peraduen|ture no small babes) which are growne to be so good husbands, that they can make account of euerie ten kine to be cléerelie woorth twentie pounds in cõmon and indifferent yeares, if the milke of fiue shéepe be dailie added to the same. But as I wote not how true this surmise is, bicause it is no part of my trade, so I am sure hereof, that some housewiues can and doo ad dailie a lesse proportion of ewes milke vnto the chéese of so manie kine, whereby their cheese dooth the longer abide moist, and eateth more brickle and mel|low than otherwise it would.

Compare 1577 edition: 1 Goats we haue p [...]ntie,Goats. and of sundrie colours in the west parts of England; especiallie in and to|wards Wales, and amongst the rockie hilles, by whome the owners doo reape no small aduantage: some also are cherished elsewhere in diuerse stéeds for the benefit of such as are diseased with sundrie maladies, vnto whom (as I heare) their milke, chéese, and bodies of their yoong kids are iudged verie profi|table, and therefore inquired for of manie farre and néere. Certes I find among the writers, that the milke of a goat is next in estimation to that of the woman; for that it helpeth the stomach, remooueth op|pilations and stoppings of the liuer, and looseth the bellie. Some place also next vnto it the milke of the ew: and thirdlie that of the cow. But hereof I can shew no reason; onelie this I know, that ewes milke is fulsome, sweet, and such in tast, as except such as are vsed vnto it no man will gladlie yéeld to liue and féed withall.

Compare 1577 edition: 1 As for swine, there is no place that hath greater store,Swine. nor more wholesome in eating, than are these here in England, which neuerthelesse doo neuer anie good till they come to the table. Of these some we eat greene for porke, and other dried vp into bakon to haue it of more continuance. Lard we make some though verie little, because it is chargeable: neither haue we such vse thereof as is to be séene in France and other countries, sith we doo either bake our meat with swéet suet of beefe or mutton, and bast all our meat with sweet or salt butter, or suffer the fattest to bast it selfe by leisure. In champaine countries they are kept by herds, and an hogherd appointed to at|tend and wait vpon them, who commonlie gathereth them togither by his noise and crie, and leadeth them foorth to féed abroad in the fields. In some places al|so women doo scowre and wet their cloths with their doong, as other doo with hemlocks and netles: but such is the sauor of the cloths touched withall, that I cannot abide to weare them on my bodie, more than such as are scowred with the reffuse sope, than the which (in mine opinion) there is none more vnkindlie fauor.

Compare 1577 edition: 1 2 Of our tame bores we make brawne,Bores. which is a kind of meat not vsuallie knowne to strangers (as I take it) otherwise would not the swart Rutters and French cookes, at the losse of Calis (where they EEBO page image 222 found great store of this prouision almost in euerie house) haue attempted with ridiculous successe to rost, bake, broile, & frie the same for their masters, till they were better informed. I haue heard moreouer, how a noble man of England, not long since, did send ouer an hogshead of brawne readie sowsed to a catholike gentleman of France, who supposing it to be fish, reserued it till Lent, at which time he did eat thereof with verie great frugalitie. Thereto he so well liked of the prouision it selfe, that he wrote ouer verie earnestlie & with offer of great recompense for more of the same fish against the yeare insuing: whereas if he had knowne it to haue beene flesh, he would not haue touched it (I dare saie) for a thousand crownes without the popes dispensation. A fréend of mine also dwelling sometime in Spaine, hauing certeine Iewes at his table, did set brawne before them, whereof they did eat verie earnestlie, suppo|sing it to be a kind of fish not common in those par|ties: but when the goodman of the house brought in the head in pastime among them, to shew what they had eaten, they rose from the table, hied them home in hast, ech of them procuring himselfe to vomit, some by oile, and some by other meanes, till (as they supposed) they had clensed their stomachs of that pro|hibited food. With vs it is accounted a great péece of seruice at the table, from Nouember vntill Febru|arie be ended; but chéeflie in the Christmasse time. With the same also we begin our dinners ech daie after other: and because it is somewhat hard of di|gestion, a draught of malueseie, bastard, or musca|dell, is vsuallie droonke after it, where either of them are conuenientlie to be had: otherwise the meaner fort content themselues with their owne drinke, which at that season is generallie verie strong, and stronger indéed than in all the yeare beside. It is made commonlie of the fore part of a tame bore, set vp for the purpose by the space of a whole yere or two,Brawne of the bore. especiallie in gentlemens houses (for the husband|men and farmers neuer franke them for their owne vse aboue thrée or foure moneths, or halfe a yéere at the most) in which time he is dieted with otes and pea|son, and lodged on the bare planks of an vneasie coat, till his fat be hardened sufficientlie for their purpose: afterward he is killed, scalded, and cut out, and then of his former parts is our brawne made,Baked hog. the rest is nothing so fat, and therefore it beareth the name of sowse onelie, and is commonlie reserued for the seruing man and hind, except it please the owner to haue anie part therof baked, which are then handled of custome after this manner. The hinder parts being cut off, they are first drawne with lard, and then sodden; being sodden they are sowsed in cla|ret wine and vineger a certeine space, and after|ward baked in pasties, and eaten of manie in stéed of the wild bore, and trulie it is verie good meat: the pestles may be hanged vp a while to drie before they be drawne with lard if you will, and thereby prooue the better. But hereof inough, and therefore to come againe vnto our brawne. the necke peeces being cut off round, are called collars of brawne, the shoulders are named shilds, onelie the ribs reteine the former denomination, so that these aforesaid péeces deserue the name of brawne: the bowels of the beast are commonlie cast awaie because of their ranknesse, and so were likewise his stones; till a foolish fantasie got hold of late amongst some delicate dames, who haue now found the meanes to dresse them also with great cost for a deintie dish, and bring them to the boord as a seruice among other of like sort, though not without note of their desire to the prouocation of fleshlie lust, which by this their fond curiositie is not a little reuealed. When the bore is thus cut out, ech peece is wrapped vp, either with bulrushes, ozier péeles, tape, inkle, or such like, and then sodden in a lead or caldron togither, till they be so tender that a man may thrust a brused rush or soft straw cleane through the fat: which being doone, they take it vp, and laie it abroad to coole: afterward putting it into close vessels, they powre either good small ale or béere mingled with veriuice and salt thereto till it be co|uered, and so let it lie (now and then altering and changing the sowsing drinke least it should wax sowre) till occasion serue to spend it out of the waie. Some vse to make brawne of great barrow hogs, and séeth them, and sowse the whole, as they doo that of the bore; and in my iudgement it is the better of both, and more easie of digestion. But of brawne thus much; and so much may seeme sufficient.

5.2. Of wild and tame foules. Chap. 2.

Of wild and tame foules. Chap. 2.

Compare 1577 edition: 1 _ORder requireth that I speake somewhat of the foules also of England, which I may easilie diuide into the wild & tame: but alas such is my small skill in foules, that to say the truth, I can neither recite their numbers, nor well distin|guish one kind of them from another. Yet this I haue by generall knowledge, that there is no nation vnder the sunne, which hath alreadie in the time of the yere more plentie of wild foule than we, for so manie kinds as our Iland dooth bring foorth, and much more would haue, if those of the higher soile might be spa|red but one yeare or two, from the greedie engins of couetous foulers, which set onlie for the pot & purse. Certes this enormitie bred great trouble in K. Iohns daies, insomuch that going in progresse about the tenth of his reigne, he found little or no game where|with to solace himself, or exercise his falcons. Wher|fore being at Bristow in the Christmas insuing, be restreined all maner of hawking or taking of wild|foule throughout England for a season, whereby the land within few yeares was throughlie replenished againe. But what stand I vpon this impertinent dis|course? Of such therefore as are bred in our land, we haue the crane, the bitter, the wild & tame swan, the bustard, the herron, curlew, snite, wildgoose, wind or doterell, brant, larke, plouer of both sorts, lapwing, teele, wigeon, mallard, sheldrake, shoueler, pewet, seamew, barnacle, quaile (who onelie with man are subiect to the falling sickenesse) the notte, the oliet or olife, the dunbird, woodcocke, partrich and feasant, be|sides diuerse other, whose names to me are vtterlie vnknowne, and much more the taste of their flesh, wherewith I was neuer acquainted. But as these serue not at all seasons, so in their seuerall turnes there is no plentie of them wanting, whereby the ta|bles of the nobilitie and gentrie should séeme at anie time furnisht. But of all these the production of none is more maruellous in my mind, than that of the barnacle, whose place of generation we haue sought oft times so farre as the Orchades, whereas perad|uenture we might haue found the same neerer home, and not onelie vpon the coasts of Ireland, but euen in our owne riuers. If I should say how either these or some such other foule not much vnlike vnto them haue bred of late times (for their place of generation is not perpetuall, but as opportunitie serueth, and the circumstances doo minister occasion) in the Thames mouth, I doo not thinke that manie will beleeue me: yet such a thing hath there béene seene, where a kind of foule had his beginning vpon a short tender shrub standing néere vnto the shore, from whence when EEBO page image 223 their time came, they fell downe, either into the salt water and liued, or vpon the drie land and perished, as Pena the French herbarian hath also noted in the verie end of his herball. What I for mine owne part haue séene here by experience, I haue alreadie so tou|ched in the chapter of Ilands, that it should be but time spent in vaine to repeat it here againe. Looke therefore in the description of Man or Manaw for more of these barnacles, as also in the eleuenth chap|ter of the description of Scotland, & I doo not doubt but you shall in some respect be satisfied in the gene|ration of these foules. As for egrets, pawpers, and such like, they are dailie brought vnto vs from be|yond the sea, as if all the foule of our countrie could not suffice to satisfie our delicate appetites.

Compare 1577 edition: 1 Our tame foule are such (for the most part) as are common both to vs and to other countries, as cocks, hens, géese, duckes, peacocks of Iude, pigeons, now an hurtfull foule by reason of their multitudes, and number of houses dailie erected for their increase (which the bowres of the countrie call in scorne al|mes houses, and dens of theeues, and such like) wherof there is great plentie in euerie farmers yard. They are kept there also to be sold either for readie monie in the open markets, or else to be spent at home in good companie amongst their neighbors without re|prehension or fines. Neither are we so miserable in England (a thing onelie granted vnto vs by the espe|ciall grace of God, and libertie of our princes) as to dine or sup with a quarter of a hen, or to make so great a repast with a cocks combe, as they doo in some other countries: but if occasion serue, the whole carcasses of manie capons, hens, pigeons, and such like doo oft go to wracke, beside béefe, mutton, veale, and lambe: all which at euerie feast are taken for ne|cessarie dishes amongest the communaltie of Eng|land.

Compare 1577 edition: 1 The golding of cocks, whereby capons are made, is an ancient practise brought in of old time by the Romans when they dwelt here in this land: but the gelding of turkies or Indish peacocks is a newer deuise: and certeinlie not vsed amisse, sith the ranke|nesse of that bird is verie much abated thereby, and the strong taste of the flesh in sundrie wise amended. If I should say that ganders grow also to be gel|ded, I suppose that some will laugh me to scorne, neither haue I tasted at anie time of such a foule so serued, yet haue I heard it more than once to be vsed in the countrie, where their géese are driuen to the field like heards of cattell by a gooseheard, a toie also no lesse to be maruelled at than the other. For as it is rare to heare of a gelded gander, so is it strange to me to sée or heare of géese to be led to the field like shéepe: yet so it is, & their gooseheard carieth a rattle of paper or parchment with him, when he goeth a|bout in the morning to gather his gostings togither, the noise whereof commeth no sooner to their eares, than they fall to gagling, and hasten to go with him. If it happen that the gates be not yet open, or that none of the house be stirring, it is ridiculous to sée how they will peepe vnder the doores, and neuer leaue creaking and gagling till they be let out vnto him to ouertake their fellowes. With vs where I dwell they are not kept in this sort, nor in manie other places, neither are they kept so much for their bodies as their feathers. Some hold furthermore an opinion, that in ouer ranke soiles their doong dooth so qualifie the batablenesse of the soile, that their cattell is there|by kept from the garget, and sundrie other diseases, although some of them come to their ends now and then, by licking vp of their feathers. I might here make mention of other foules producted by the indu|strie of man, as betwéene the fesant cocke and doong|hill hen, or betwéene the fesant and the ringdooue, the peacocke and the turkie hen, the partrich and the pi|geon: but sith I haue no more knowledge of these, than what I haue gotten by mine care, I will not meddle with them. Yet Cardan speaking of the se|cond sort, dooth affirme it to be a foule of excellent beautie. I would likewise intreat of other foules which we repute vncleane, as rauens, crowes, pies, choughes, rookes, kites, iaies, ringtailes, starlings, woodspikes, woodnawes, rauens, &c: but sith they a|bound in all countries, though peraduenture most of all in England (by reason of our negligence) I shall not néed to spend anie time in the rehearsall of them. Neither are our crowes and thoughs cherished of purpose to catch vp the woormes that bréed in our soiles (as Polydor supposeth) sith there are no vplan|dish townes but haue (or should haue) nets of their owne in store to catch them withall. Sundrie acts of parlement are likewise made for their vtter destruction, as also the spoile of other rauenous fouls hurtfull to pultrie, conies, lambs, and kids, whose va|luation of reward to him that killeth them is after the head: a deuise brought from the Goths, who had the like ordinance for the destruction of their white crowes, and tale made by the becke, which killed both lambs and pigs. The like order is taken with vs for our vermines, as with them also for the rootage out of their wild beasts, sauing that they spared their greatest beares, especiallie the white, whose skins are by custome & priuilege reserued to couer those plan|chers wherevpon their priests doo stand at Masse, least he should take some vnkind cold in such a long péece of worke: and happie is the man that may prouide them for him, for he shall haue pardon inough for that so religious an act, to last if he will till doomes day doo approch; and manie thousands after. Nothing therefore can be more vnlikelie to be true, than that these noisome creatures are nourished amongst vs to deuoure our wormes, which doo not abound much more in England than elsewhere in other countries of the maine. It may be that some looke for a dis|course also of our other foules in this place at my hand, as nightingales, thrushes, blackebirds, maui|ses, ruddocks, redstarts or dunocks, larkes, tiuits, kingsfishers, buntings, turtles white or graie, linets, bulfinshes, goldfinshes, washtailes, cheriecrackers, yellowhamers, felfares, &c: but I should then spend more time vpon them than is conuenient. Neither will I speake of our costlie and curious auiaries dailie made for the better hearing of their melodie, and obseruation of their natures: but I cease also to go anie further in these things, hauing (as I thinke) said inough alreadie of these that I haue named.